A private paradise in the heart of Kenya

When you go off the beaten track in East Africa, you don’t just discover new places – you also glimpse alternative facets to this diverse region. Away from the major parks there’s a world of surprises, unique wildlife encounters and stunning luxury camps to be discovered.

Our recent stay at Ekorian’s Mugie Camp in Kenya’s Laikipia region was a prime example of this. Located in the Mugie Sanctuary, this camp is surrounded by a bewildering array of wildlife. During our visit, some of the most memorable sightings happened just a walk away from camp, at the nearby Mugie Dam. We watched as large herds of elephants gathered here for their daily drink at noon and we spent an evening watching a cheetah stalk her prey. We even spotted a leopard, which, as one of Africa’s more secretive creatures, always provides a moment to savour.

The mess tent at Ekorian's Mugie Camp

The dam and the wider Mugie Conservancy are home to countless more species too. Lions, buffalo, giraffes, zebras and warthogs are among the area’s impressive mammal population. And it’s a dream for bird-watchers, with over 280 species attracted to the dam alone, including migratory birds from as far away as Siberia.

As for the Ekorian’s Mugie accommodation, it’s everything you’d want from a wilderness camp. Simple decked tents, rustic log supports and thatched roofs create a calm, natural look but step inside and details like the stylish furnishings and comfy beds bring comfort and luxury. Plus, providing running hot water and flush toilets is no mean feat in such a remote setting. On top of all this, the camp manages to be a certified eco-lodge, thanks to its solar power and environmentally sensitive construction.

A bedroom tent opening up to the stunning Mugie Sanctuary beyond

The passion and dedication of the couple who run Ekorian – Josh and Donna Perrett – make for fantastic service. The food is fresh and delicious and the owners take time and care to make guests feel at home. It’s even the ideal spot to take young children. Living out here with kids of their own, the Perretts are more than qualified to tailor for younger African adventurers. And with countless activities on offer – swimming, kayaking, golf, cultural visits, bush walks and camel rides to name but a few – there’s a feast of adventure to be had here for guests of all generations.
 
Why not include a trip to Ekorian’s Mugie Camp as part of your next safari? As well as getting a definite thumbs-up from Africa House following our own highly enjoyable stay there, it’s also a chance to explore a lesser travelled but beautiful and wildlife-rich area deep in the Kenyan wilderness.

The camp with its sights set high

Views don’t come much more dramatic than the towering form of Mount Kilimanjaro – and there are few lodges better placed to capture this drama than Tawi Lodge. Located on the southern fringe of Kenya’s stunning Amboseli National Park, the view from Tawi is a quintessential safari landscape of vast open plains with Kili’s snow-tipped grandeur providing the backdrop.
 
As well as its impressive landscapes, this location is also a sensational spot for wildlife. A short game drive will reveal Amboseli’s incredible array of wildlife, including lions, hyenas, wildebeest and Kenya’s largest elephants – in fact, you won’t even need to stray from the lodge to see the elephants, because while you enjoy your morning refreshments, you can watch them enjoy theirs at Tawi’s waterhole, just metres away.

Stylish bedroom at Tawi with stunning views of Mount Kilimanjaro

The lofty mountain view is by fittingly matched by the high standards of this little boutique camp. Tawi is beautifully designed to blend into the African landscape surrounding it with thatched roofs, rich woods and soft lighting. And Tawi has been thoughtfully set out to maximise your enjoyment of that dominating mountain view – every one of its cottages is arranged so that Kili is on display whether you’re on your private veranda, or even in bed or relaxing in your own chic freestanding bath.

For all its rustic charm and the wilderness setting, there’s luxury in abundance here. Each spacious cottage features big, comfy beds, an en-suite with both a bath and shower, and its own fireplace for cosy nights. Plus, for a full pampering experience, Tawi offers a spa, outdoor hot tub and a range of massage treatments. And with a gourmet menu featuring fresh local produce, the sense of luxury is complete.
 
This whole package of great hospitality and stunning aesthetics makes Tawi one of East Africa’s most appealing accommodations. Throw in a truly classic view and amazing game-spotting and it’s simply world-class – and unsurprisingly, a firm fixture on Africa House’s list of favoured properties for our guests in this area.
 
More information about Tawi Camp can be found at www.tawilodge.com. Let us know if you would like to include a stay at Tawi in your own Africa House Safari itinerary. 

Nature meets nostalgia at Sand River

When we heard last year that a new tented camp was opening in the Masai Mara, we were curious as to what it would be like. When we found out it was a luxury 1920s-inspired camp on the stunning Sand River built by boutique accommodation experts The Elewana Collection, we had to go and see it for ourselves.

We made our inaugural outing to this new camp, simply named Sand River Masai Mara after its position at this stunning spot in Kenya’s great National Park, at the very end of last year. What we discovered was a classic permanent camp comprising a string of beautifully apppointed tents dotted along the bank of the Sand River.

A bathroom at Sand River

Tents they may be, but roughing it this certainly is not. Sand River has been designed and decorated to evoke the Golden Age of 1920s and 30s safaris, and the brief is executed to stunning effect. You’re treated to roomy interiors with big four-poster beds, chandeliers, period furnishings, rich wooden floors and opulent fabrics. The bathrooms are fitted with grand roll top baths and gorgeous period-style washstands. This is truly a taste of the classic early days of safari, a sublime immersion in the romantic elegance of those heady days of exploration evoked in Hemingway or Out of Africa. 

A panoramic view of our family tent

The accommodation experience is completed by a standard of service and amenities which is nothing short of exceptional. Each tented room has a private wooden deck where you can sit and take in the views over the river. The communal area boasts wifi, a snooker room and a swimming pool. The sense of luxury continues at dinner time, where the food is not so much bush tucker as fine restaurant dining, with a good choice of delicious dishes on offer. And the staff, as well as providing first-class service, are an absolute pleasure.

Wild wonders

All this is impressive enough – and that’s before even considering the camp’s setting. Sand River is slap bang in the heart of East Africa’s most thrilling wildlife region, where the Masai Mara flanks Tanzania’s Serengeti just beyond the river. This is the pulsing heart of East Africa’s safari wilderness and very much in the thick of the wildlife action. The daily game drives from Sand River provide heaps of animal encounters, with the Big Five all lurking here, along with hundreds of other weird and wonderful creatures besides. We were delighted to get some great sightings of our own, including some precious glimpses (and photos, of which you can see one below) of the majestic lion affectionately known here as ‘Blondie’.

Blondie, who we spotted on the Masai Mara

Another exciting aspect to Sand River is its ideal placing for one of Earth’s greatest natural phenomena, the mass wildebeest migration. If you’re here sometime between July and October, and you’re lucky, you might just get a front-row seat as the incredible sight of masses of wildebeest, accompanied by zebras and gazelles, making their epic journey. But even outside this season, as our trip proved, the wildlife viewing here is sensational.

An elephant we photographed at a watering hole

Our stay at Sand River was one to remember. Despite it having opened less than a year ago, this tented camp has well and truly established itself as a remarkable addition to Kenya’s luxury travel scene, and earns our stamp of approval for Africa House guests. Elegant period luxury, impeccable service and a winning location make Sand River the perfect base for a classic Africa safari.

Out on its own

A long way from the familiar National Parks and Reserves, in Kenya’s remote Northern Frontier lies Sarara, a small, intimate tented camp surrounded by wilderness. The only accommodation for miles around, this is truly wild and immersive. It also happens to have style, luxury, amazing food and exemplary eco credentials.
 
Wild and free

Being off the beaten track has its benefits. While the major wildlife regions such as the Masai Mara and Amboseli offer the must-see thrills of abundant game viewing in classic safari country, delving deeper into the more mysterious northern parts of Kenya reveals a whole other aspect to Africa and one which many guests find intensely rewarding.
 

Sarara's infinity pool and the mountain view beyond

One obvious benefit of a location like this is experiencing the space and beauty of Africa with relatively few other people around. The quietness brings out the timeless quality of Africa’s wilderness and can be powerfully moving.
 
Another great advantage of Sarara’s particular location on the Namunyak Range in Laikipia, is that despite having less wildlife than the big safari regions, it’s brilliant for spotting some of Africa’s more unusual and elusive species. Guests at Sarara often enjoy sightings of leopards, African wild dogs, lesser kudus and aardwolves, to name but a few. And unlike in the big parks, there’s the distinct bonus of being allowed to wander on foot in bush walks.
 
The wildlife is far from being the only spectacle to take in here. The dramatically pointed mountains of Mathews Range make a stunning focal point, and rugged bushland unfold all around.

Comfort and charm

With such beautiful surroundings, the Sarara camp has a lot to live up to – and obligingly, it delivers in abundance. Comfortingly rustic camping charm combines with chic touches, high-ceilinged tents and great personal facilities (basics like running water, electric lighting and indoor flushing toilets become assets that you can suddenly appreciate in a place so remote).
 

Rustic luxury - one of Sarara's bedroom tents

A real treat is a natural rock infinity pool with in which you can gaze out at the splendour of the mountain range beyond. The pool also overlooks the nearby watering hole, so while you lounge in the water, you might be entertained by elephants or kudus as they drop off daily for a drink.
 
An eco dream

Sarara’s thoughtful regard to its relationship with the environment and local community add yet further points to its sizeable list of merits. Much of its food is grown organically on-site. Its water is supplied by is a gravity-fed system from the mountains. Building materials have been locally sourced with minimal impact.
 
But the wider picture is the success of the community conservation project in which Sarara Camp plays an important part. Working together with the local Samburu community, the Namunyak Wildlife Conservation Trust has transformed this region, helping to protect wildlife and halt the elephant poaching which had previously been rife here. Sustainable tourism practised by the likes of Sarara has been crucial in incentivising this environmental protection.
 
Sarara offers pure eco luxury and is a testament to how good tourism can be when it’s small-scale, high-quality and delivered with passion and conviction. We’d happily stay there time and time again. And if this fits with your own dream of Africa, we’d love to take you there too.

Fast-track to paradise

When you first land in Kenya at Nairobi’s busy international airport, the wild, remote Africa which likely enticed you here might still seem a long way off. So what’s amazing about Emakoko Lodge in Nairobi National Park is that, despite being located in a thoroughly rural Emakoko Lodgeand serene setting and surrounded by wildlife, you can get there well within an hour of setting foot in Kenya.

The serene surroundings at Emakoko

Despite its proximity to Nairobi, Emakoko is far more than simply a convenient stop-off. Of course, this location does make it a very handy place to start or finish your East African safari. But Emakoko also stands on it own as accommodation of considerable quality and character, and which frequently leaves guests very pleasantly surprised.

For one thing, Emakoko abounds with style and charm. The kind of style that suits Africa perfectly – simple, organic, earthy and calming – thanks to rustic yet tasteful décor that includes natural branch railings and homely stone fireplaces. It’s enough to create relaxation and a luxury feel while leaving the environment beyond its walls to do most of the talking. And the surroundings here are certainly worth taking notice of. The lodge is cleverly slotted into the side of a valley Bedroom at Emakokowith rooms overlooking leafy woodland, the river which flows nearby and the open bushland beyond.

One of Emakoko's stylish bedrooms

Complementing Emakoko's natural charms and impressive design, the brilliant quality of service and hospitality make it the complete package. Friendly without being intrusive, the small, welcoming team of staff run by the family who independently own Emakoko, frequently prompt praise from guests.

All of which makes this surprising little gem just outside the bustling capital a compelling accommodation option and one which we’re pleased to endorse and take guests to. If you would like to stay at Emakoko as part of your safari itinerary, we’d love to take you there.

Future bright for Kenya and its tourist industry

The smooth and peaceful resolution of the recent presidential election in Kenya has been strongly welcomed both by the Kenyan people and the international community – and comes as a welcome shot of optimism for the country’s tourism trade.

Following the disputed outcome of last month’s election, the Supreme Court in Nairobi has upheld the result, meaning that Uhuru Kenyatta will be sworn into office as President on 9 April. The peaceful acceptance of this decision and the acknowledgement that the election process has been free and fair have attracted sweeping praise of Kenya’s handling of the process. There has been no repeat of the unrest which surrounded the 2007 election, prompting quiet celebration about the country’s developing democratic maturity.

The news has positive implications for tourism in Kenya. Clearly, a secure and progressive political climate creates the right conditions for sustaining a stable tourist industry, and to promote confidence throughout the international community about choosing Kenya as a holiday destination.

But further to this, the choice of incoming president can be regarded as a particular source of optimism for those of us involved in tourism. Kenyatta has previously worked as Chairman of the Kenya Tourist Board, so is closely attuned to the needs of the sector. He has also expressed a keen awareness of the need to protect Kenya’s natural environment, including its threatened wildlife.

In this new chapter for Kenya, we are hopeful that we can continue to grow as a progressive and maturing nation – and also to look forward to a system of governance which safeguards our phenomenal natural assets and cements Kenya's place as one of the world’s most attractive and welcoming places to visit.

'Wild is best'

For wildlife lovers, Africa is the ultimate adventure playground. So it’s always a pleasure to be hear how inspired how our guests have been by what they’ve encountered while out on safari with us. We’re delighted to be able to reproduce a letter from a recent guest, Andre, about how the wildlife-spotting anticipations were met while on safari with his wife and friends (interspersed with a couple of Andre’s great photographs from the trip):

Both David and I had been on safari with Africa House before, but that was a hardcore photographic event with 'Amateur Photographer Magazine' in 2010. We liked it so much that this year we wanted to bring our wives so that they could share in the fantastic wildlife of Kenya. This time we had two specific requests – the first was to see the mountain gorillas in Rwanda and the second was to see both black and white rhino in the wild. Africa House organised everything: safari camps, hotels, internal flights, game drives – everything. All we had to do was turn up at Nairobi airport.

A gorilla at Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

The gorillas were wonderful. You would never think that you could be so close to these magnificent creatures. Our initial fears were totally unfounded as they seemed totally at ease with our presence with the silverback passing within 2 feet of us as he went off into the jungle. The people of Rwanda are wonderful, so open and friendly and always smiling. Our guide, Eric, was very knowledgeable and gave us a great insight into the culture of Rwanda.

We started our Kenyan safari at Lewa Safari camp and were treated to a mass of wildlife including many rhino, both black and white – such fantastic beasts. In fact, the only animals we didn't see at Lewa were the leopard and the wildebeest and these we saw later at Little Governor’s and in the Mara. Whilst in Kenya we were accompanied by John, our guide, and Jackson, our driver. Their love of the animals shone through and really made an exciting safari memorable. We had a really great time.

Rhinos at Lewa Conservancy, Kenya

Initially, my wife Jan was concerned about being so close to lions, cheetahs and leopards in an open vehicle, having only seen caged animals before. Now she is totally at ease with the experience and really believes that 'wild is best'.

We've got to thank Karen and David for organising our trip of a lifetime. Will we be back? You bet!! All the best and hope to see you again in the not too distant future.

Andre

Three of our favourite Kenyan parks and reserves

Kenya is, with good reason, regarded as the home of the classic African safari. And the place to catch most of the game action is in the dozens of National Parks and Reserves which are dotted throughout the country. Although these regions are united in providing a habitat to the bewildering array of wildlife found in Kenya, they are also distinct and unique, all with their own special set of natural features. Here are three of the parks and reserves that are guaranteed to thrill our guests:

Elephants at Amboseli, with Mount
Kilimanjaro as a backdrop

Amboseli
This National Park is situated in Kenya’s Rift Valley Province, not far from the border with Tanzania. One of Amboseli’s most striking attributes is the sensational views it affords. Whenever you see that unmistakeably African scene of elephants on wide open plains studded with acacia trees, with Mount Kilimanjaro towering on the horizon, the image is most likely to be one captured from this park. In addition to magnificent landscapes, Amboseli also boasts plentiful wildlife. Numerous herds of elephants are among the most impressive of the park’s animals. Also to be spotted are lions, cheetahs, giraffes and an amazing four-hundred-plus species of birds.

Masai Mara
The best-known and most-visited of Kenya’s reserves, the Masai Mara offers an action-packed African safari. The Masai Mara is actually an extension of the similarly famous Serengeti ecosystem over the border in Tanzania. The reserve is packed with diverse wildlife, including representatives of each of the Big Five. In the latter half of each year, the reserve is also the setting for the world’s most spectacular migration as millions of wildebeest and hundreds of thousands of zebras flood into the reserve from the Serengeti. The Masai Mara also presents a magical opportunity to glimpse into the ancient lifestyle of the beautiful Maasai people. Despite the reserve’s huge popularity, it still offers relatively remote spots and stunning exclusive accommodation. That’s where Africa House comes in – our intimate knowledge of the the region ensures that we can show guests the very best of the Masai Mara.

David on the dusty Tsavo road

Tsavo
Divided into West Tsavo and East Tsavo, this double National Park, separated by a road and railway line, occupies a whopping 21,000 square kilometres altogether. This region offers a fascinating mix of wildlife, including rare black rhinos, bushbabies, hippos and hartebeest. Tsavo has some stirringly beautiful landscapes to enjoy, including distinctive and stark red plains and rustic scrubland filled with acacia. Some of our favourite luxury accommodation is found here, including the utterly charming Lions Bluff eco-lodge, raised on stilts to make the most of the breathtaking views.

Five great places to sample Kenyan history

With its reputation as the home of safari and its idyllic beaches, you’d be forgiven for overlooking another fascinating aspect to Kenya – its rich and variegated history. From intriguing prehistoric sites that turned up evidence about the origin of modern humans, to magnificent ancient military structures, to stunning architecture signalling its varied cultural influences, Kenya is a treasure trove of historical interest. Here are five great spots that showcase the country’s colourful past:

Olorgesailie
Located 70km from Nairobi, this pre-historic site offers a rare insight into early human life. Discovered and excavated in 1942, the area has revealed one of the world’s highest concentrations of stone age tools, including hand axes, and an early human fossil. An accompanying museum presents exhibits and explains the significance of the site’s findings.


Lamu Town Fort

Lamu Town
This ancient town is found of the main island in the Lamu archipelago off the east coast of Kenya. The town dates from at least as far back as the 14th century and hosts a rich collection of fascinating heritage. Lamu reveals an eclectic social history, which features Swahili, Arabic and Portuguese influences. With no vehicles on the island, enchanting squares and narrow streets, and charming architecture, Lamu Town takes you back in time and provides a living slice of African history.

Gedi Ruins
This is a magical lost Swahili city near Malindi which was mysteriously deserted in the 17th century. Gedi became hidden by a forest but was rediscovered in the 1920s. A visit to the city today reveals palaces, houses and tombs dating as far back as the 13th century, with the Great Mosque being a highlight.

Fort Jesus
This coastal fortress in Mombasa was built in the 1590s by the Portuguese. It is considered a superb example of Renaissance architecture with its geometric harmony and man-shaped layout when seen from above. Testament to the importance of Fort Jesus is the fact it has been assigned as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The unique Giraffe Manor

Giraffe Manor
For accommodation with a historical essence, Giraffe Manor in Nairobi is hard to beat. With a lovingly restored art deco interior and classic 1930s architecture, this small boutique hotel is highly evocative of Kenya’s colonial days. With the added twist of several resident Rothschild giraffes, which like to pay a visit to guests at breakfast, this charming manor combines a unique wildlife experience with a rich historical viewpoint.

The perfect spot for migration spectacle

There are few greater wildlife spectacles on Earth than the great annual wildebeest migration. And with the colossal herd just starting to arrive in Kenya now, there are few better places to witness the event than at the perfectly positioned Sala’s Camp.

Preparing for dinner at Sala's Camp

Located on the very southern edge of the Masai Mara, Sala’s Camp has the privilege of being the very first camp in the game reserve to observe the arrival of the wildebeest from the Serengeti. The camp is just a short drive away from the river which the animals must cross as they arrive on Kenyan soil. This allows guests to get a sensational view of the high-drama struggle of thousands upon thousands of wildebeest making the crossing. Predators, which are numerous in this area, stalk the travelling herds, awaiting their opportunity to attack. As well as the numerous big cats found here, there are leopards, zebras and a plethora of other wildlife, making it a dream for wildlife-lovers.

Despite being set in the world famous Masai Mara reserve, Sala’s Camp enjoys a surprisingly remote location with the magical Sand River providing a beautiful feature. This makes for a true African wilderness experience, and a tranquil and serene stay – aside, of course, from those countless thousands of hooves which are passing through around now!

Sala's Camp at night

In addition to its remarkable location, Sala’s offers world-class hospitality. The hosts are warm and welcoming, and have a knack for making guests feel special with their great food, attentive service, and activities to enthral kids. And although this is simple tented accommodation, the camp is stylish, with a distinct feel of cosy African homeliness.

Sala’s Camp would be an enticing prospect at any time, but with the migration converging here, the camp also becomes a front row seat for one of the most breathtaking scenes in nature’s great theatre. The latest news on this year’s migration is that the wildebeest have been slow to make the passage across from the Serengeti into the Masai Mara but that the move is now underway, led by a herd of zebras, the wildebeest’s travelling companions – so guests at Sala’s Camp can expect an incredible show.

The future's green

Think of Kenya and you’ll probably picture the classic safari landscape of wide open plains and muted, burnt shades of the savannah. But the country possesses a whole other range of natural settings, among which is lush tropical forest – and it’s this particular environment that a current project by the Kenya Forest Service (KFS) is setting out to protect.

The KFS, which is responsible for ensuring the sustainable management of forestry resources across Kenya, has set in motion an ambitious tree-planting project to replenish the Mount Kenya and Aberdare Forests. Both of these forests were depleted by recent wildfires. Forested areas have been under threat more generally across East Africa by illegal logging for many years.

The planting project is part of a wider aim to increase the coverage of forest in Kenya from the current level of less than four percent to ten percent. Protecting and enhancing Kenya’s forests is an important for the safeguarding these ecosystems’ rich biodiversity and also because of the vital contribution forest resources make to people’s livelihoods and the Kenyan economy.

As well as engaging in planting tree seedlings itself, the KFS has set aside three million tree seedlings for distribution to various community groups, including schools and hospitals, to carry out their own planting projects.

Seven fascinating facts about the majestic Maasai

1. The Maasai, who live across Kenya and northern Tanzania, are Probably Africa’s best-known tribe, and are the embodiment of a quintessentially traditional way of life in East Africa. They have become a symbol of African culture because of their strong identity and the preservation of their unique lifestyle but are by no means one of the biggest tribes in the region. In fact, the Kikuyu and Luhya tribes are among the most populous of the 40–70 tribes living in Kenya, this total count varying according to how the groups are classified.

2. Cattle have always been at the centre of the Maasai way of life. Cattle-herding remains the primary occupation for many Maasai and the tribe shares a religious belief that all cattle were given to the Maasai by their god. Some Maasai people’s diets consist entirely of meat, blood and milk provided by their cattle.

The Maasai in their bright and intricate dress

3. The Maasai are a multilingual society. As well as speaking their own language, called Maa, the tribe speak English and Swahili, the official languages of Kenya and Tanzania. The rich tribal diversity and assortment of historical influences in East Africa have endowed the countries with a plethora of languages and dialects.

4. Their brightly coloured clothing is one of the most striking and distinguishing features of the Maasai. The loosely wrapped robes worn by both men and women are called shuka and are usually a vivid red, a colour the tribe associates with power – although other colours are worn too, with orange, blue and black being popular. The Maasai’s look is usually completed with beautiful and intricate jewellery, which includes multi-coloured beaded necklaces and wood bracelets.

5. The ‘jumping dance’ for which the Maasai are famous the world over is called adamu. The men of the community form a line or circle and take turns to jump in the centre, the height of the leaps denoting their strength as tribal warriors. The music of the Maasai is traditionally performed with the human voice alone, the harmonic chanting providing the rhythm while one singer performs the melody. The dance and music of the Maasai are one of the most memorable and life-affirming things to experience when visiting East Africa.

6. The Maasai continue to live a semi-nomadic life, despite pressures to settle in one spot. They travel with their beloved cattle, and other livestock such as goats and sheep, moving the animals seasonally to supply them with fresh pastures. When they’re not on the move, the Maasai live in inkajijik, houses built from earth, sticks, grass, and the dung and urine of cows.

7. The Maasai are renowned for the warm welcome they extend to guests and love to talk and to share ideas. Arranging a cultural encounter with the Maasai tribe as part of a safari allows you an unforgettable insight into the lives of these vibrant and inspiring people.

Kenya Airways announce expansion

Kenya Airways announced this month that it plans a major expansion to its service over the next five years. The airline, Kenya’s largest, says that it will invest $3.6 billion over the period, predominantly on building aircraft and expanding its route network.

In particular, Kenya Airways is hoping to capitalise on the burgeoning tourist markets of Asia. It plans to introduce flight services to China and India. Routes are also expected to be increased within the African continent and to parts of Europe.

One potential hurdle the airline’s plans could face is the limited capacity of its base, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. There are, however, plans in motion to expand the airport by creating a new terminal. During a recent speech, President Kibaki of Kenya urged airport authorities to press ahead urgently with the project, highlighting the importance of keeping pace with the anticipated increase in demand for travel to Kenya.

Sensational Sirikoi

East African tourism is notable for its hidden gems, and Sirikoi lodge in Kenya provides the perfect example. Set in a secluded acacia grove at the foot of Mount Kenya, this luxury tented accommodation has some beautiful and captivating features.

Tent at Sirikoi

The use of natural, rustic materials in the camp’s construction sets the tone for a laid-back wilderness experience – with stone, canvas, thatch, rich woods and warm textiles contributing to the design aesthetic. But here, rustic certainly doesn’t mean roughing it. There’s luxury and comfort aplenty. The tented bedrooms are spacious yet cosy and each has an elegant bathroom with a claw-footed Victorian bath. The sense of restful comfort is enhanced further still by the impeccable welcome of camp’s hosts and owners, Sue and Willie Roberts.

The food is lovingly prepared, and more than this, much of it is produced around the camp. Sirikoi’s own organic garden provides fresh, healthy fruit and vegetables. Beef is reared in the local vicinity. And the camp’s drinking water comes from its own freshwater spring. This local sourcing of food and drink is an important element in Sirikoi’s holistic and sustainable approach generally.

A comfortable bedroom at Sirikoi

And Sirikoi’s location is sensational. Set in private land and surrounded by the Lewa Conservancy, the region offers a real taste of the wild, romantic Africa of the kind that occupies the imagination. Open savannah stretches out before you and the imposing form of Mount Kenya, visible from camp, makes a spectacular backdrop.

The number one thing on the minds of most visitors to Africa, however, is the wildlife. And this is yet another respect in which Sirikoi comes up trumps. Lewa is a remarkably rich ecosystem, harbouring a great number of the characters you might hope to see, including the lion, leopard, cheetah, elephant and buffalo. It is also an important habitat for both the black and white rhino and contains the largest concentration of the endangered Grevy’s zebra in the world.

Wildlife around Sirikoi

There are plenty of activities available to guests at Sirikoi to help you appreciate the paradise surrounding the camp. Thanks to the private setting, it is possible to take in the wildlife sights on walking trips – a privilege that affords a uniquely close connection to the bush. There are also opportunities for helicopter or bi-plane flights and the breathtaking viewpoints they bring, horse-riding, camel-riding, fly-fishing trips, and cultural encounters with local tribespeople.

It’s easy to see why Sirikoi is loved by those who know about it, and why guests often return to its peace and seclusion. If you would like to spend time here during a safari of your own, we’d love to take you there.

Growth last year for Kenyan tourism

Figures just released by the Kenyan tourism indicate that 2011 saw the number of tourists coming to Kenya by air rise to 1.26 million, an increase of 15.4% on the 2010 figure. This result marks a third consecutive year of increases in visitors to the country.

The ministry attributes the success of the tourist sector to an extensive marketing campaign and also to the opening of new upmarket lodges, camps and beach resorts during the year.

The highest number of visitors arrived from the UK, a longstanding leading source of holiday-makers to Kenya. It was followed by the US, Italy, Germany and India. Kenya is hoping to attract increasing numbers of visitors from markets such as the Czech Republic, Russia and China over coming years to boost growth further.

The year’s tourism success comes despite a number of challenges in 2011, including social tension in neighbouring Somalia, economic problems in the Eurozone and fears about the possibility of another global recession. Kenya’s success in achieving healthy visitor numbers is seen as a testament to the quality of its tourist assets and its commitment to tourism development.

Five fascinating flamingo facts

1. The flamingos that are a characteristic presence along the Great Rift Valley in East Africa are actually lesser flamingos. They are found around the lakes throughout Ethiopia, Kenya and Tanzania. These are marked out from five other species of flamingo by their relatively small size and black colouring on their bills.

2. It is not known whether the populations of lesser flamingos in East Africa are genetically related to a smaller isolated population living in India. But a new study being conducted at the UK’s University of Leicester is aiming to discover just that, through genetic research on feathers from birds at each location. Revealing whether or not these groups of flamingos are distinct or whether they interact might clear up long-standing mystery about their migratory patterns.

3. Flamingos feed on blue-green algae, and to a lesser extent, shrimp. Surprisingly, it is the algae that give the lesser flamingo its characteristic soft pink colouring, as they are virtually all this species eats. The algae contain a photosynthetic pigment which is expressed in the birds’ plumage. The particular algae favoured by flamingos, mainly Spirulina, only grow in alkaline water, which explains the concentrations of the birds around the soda lakes of the Great Rift Valley.

4. It is thought by many that the flamingo may have inspired the ancient myth of the phoenix, the immortal firebird which burns periodically then is reborn from the ashes. The flamingo, as well as having a majestic stature and otherworldly bright colouring, has another feature which is phoenix-like – flamingos build a raised mound nest above salt flats, which are too hot for the eggs, creating a convection effect that resembles the flames you might expect during a phoenix re-birth.

5. East Africa is home to over 2 million lesser flamingos, the largest concentration in the world. They create a vast sea of pink as they gather at their regular breeding ground at Lake Natron, in Tanzania, close to the Kenya border. They also appear in huge flocks in Kenya at Lake Nakuru (their main feeding ground) and Lake Bogoria.

Click here to see a stunning film of flamingos at Lake Bogoria:

The high life

In our last newsletter we reported on our recent action-packed trip to Ndutu in Tanzania. While our account ended there, our exploration of the East African wilderness didn’t. The next stage of our start-of-year holiday took us over the border into Kenya, where the next few days took on a distinctively hilly character.

A house with history

The first hill to climb was that leading to the alluring Grogan’s Castle. This unusual and imposing white-walled mansion is a curious blend of European and Arabic architecture, with more than a hint of bold art deco stylings which reflect its 1930s construction. Wrought-iron entrance gates, wide curving staircases and huge rooms create a sense of grandeur and luxury.

An en-suite bedroom at Grogan's Castle

The elevation of Grogan’s Castle makes for a spectacular stay. On arrival we were struck by the amazing views of the surrounding landscape. Stood atop an isolated hill, the house has breathtaking 360-degrees views, with the towering form of Mount Kilimanjaro which stands nearby dominating the skyline to the north-west. We also gazed out over Lake Jipe and the Pare Mountains.

The mansion comes complete with irresistible historical associations. Ewart Grogan, the man who built the house as his residence over 70 years ago, certainly had an interesting story. He was an influential settler from England with a mixed reputation that included charm, wit and vision, but also arrogance and a rebellious streak. Grogan is best known for being the first person to make the perilous trans-African journey from Cape Town to Cairo, a challenge he undertook to impress the father of Gertrude, the woman he loved. The feat paid off as he later married her. A children’s hospital he built in her name still stands in Nairobi today.

The romance of this story certainly adds to the mystique of the accommodation. And with spacious bedrooms (to which the word ‘double’ hardly does justice), sensitive recent renovations, friendly staff and wonderful food, our time at Grogan’s Castle was one to remember for all the right reasons.

The view with a lodge

Our next stop was out east at Lumo Conservancy and to another elevated location at the renowned Lion’s Bluff eco-lodge. We were taken aback by vast, sweeping vistas over the classic African savannah, sparsely studded with acacia trees and spreading out to mountains on the horizon. The lodge enables you to take in these sights in style, with each of its raised tents complete with its own veranda. It’s unsurprising that Lion’s Bluff is wittily dubbed ‘the view with a lodge’.

A Lion's Bluff cottage

But while the surroundings are breathtaking, the lodge is pretty impressive too, with rustic charm in abundance. With four-poster beds and balcony balustrades crafted from timber in its naturally bumpy, irregular form, and pointed coconut-thatched roofs, it’s heaven for lovers of natural chic living. Excellent cuisine and welcoming, attentive service completed the comfort of our stay.

The thing that you really come to Lumo to enjoy, however, is the incredible game-viewing. Lumo Conservancy, a part of the Tsavo National Park, is a hub of animal activity, and both day and night game drives are available here to make the most of this opportunity. Wildlife highlights during our stay included numerous elephant sightings, following a male lion for hours, a night-time sighting of a striped hyena and wonderful bird sightings (photos of which can be seen below).

This short tour of southern Kenya has reconnected us with the beauty we’re so keen to share with our guests. It serves as a reminder of how amazing wildlife, stunning scenery and gorgeous accommodation combine to make this part of the world so uniquely magical.

Here are a few of our wildlife snaps from Lumo Conservancy:

Lilac-breasted roller

European roller

Lesser kudu

Yellow-necked spur fowl

Bateleur eagle

Yellow-necked spur fowl

One conservancy's fight to save the rhino

The story of Africa's black and white rhinoceroses is a sobering reminder of how devastating the practices of our own species can be for some of our fellow creatures. Over recent decades rhinos have been ruthlessly and illegally killed for their horns, which are believed by some traditional medicine systems to have therapeutic properties, despite the total absence of scientific evidence for this claim. The global black rhino population, for example, has fallen alarmingly from around 70000 in the late 1960s to 5000 today, a level which makes the species critically endangered.

One programme that is striving to help the black rhino and the southern white rhino is that which is being run at Lewa Downs Conservancy. Situated in northern Kenya, an important region for these species, Lewa is currently home to 65 black and 46 southern white rhinos. The conservation team here are committed to encouraging breeding amongst the population, monitoring the animals’ movements and behaviour, and to provide security from poachers.

Lewa’s conservation initiative has resulted in steady increases of the population under its care, with black rhino levels averaging growth of 10% per year since 2000. There is still a long way to go to increase groups to stable, self-sustaining levels. And the work of conservationists at Lewa and across Kenya and Africa more generally has been undermined by a concerning resurgence of poaching incidents in recent years. Nevertheless, the nine black rhino births which took place at the conservancy last year have been cause for celebration and optimism and are a testament to the concerted efforts its team continues to make in the face of environmental challenges and poaching.

White rhinos grazing

One of the ways in which Lewa Downs funds its conservation work is through fees from tourism. The area is a longstanding favourite for us at Africa House, appearing, for example, in the itinerary for our forthcoming Spring Break Safari. Our guests consistently enjoy the beautiful accommodation and amazing wildlife encounters on offer here. This combination of high-quality safaris with support for conservation for animals such as the iconic rhino truly embodies responsible tourism. Lewa Downs proves that tourism can be good for guests and good for wildlife, making it an organisation with which we are proud to be associated.

Go low

If the end of the Christmas holiday has left you looking forward to spring and summer for your next chance to get away, you might want to consider planning a trip to East Africa. The April-June period is often overlooked as a time to visit the region because of the wet weather it brings. But those in the know realise that, in many ways, that the low season has several compelling advantages. It’s certainly one of our favourite times to explore both our favourite haunts and unknown reaches of East Africa.

The fact is that the rain which deters most isn’t as forbidding as some would expect. It doesn’t pour continually and is nothing like monsoon rainfall in intensity. Undeniably, it’s wetter during these months, although there’s no guarantee of enjoying drier weather outside the wet season, as last year’s unpredictable seasonal timings attested.

And there are some persuasive upsides. Firstly, the low season means lower prices. Great discounts are available at many hotels and lodges and even on some flights. Even more alluringly for travellers who like their space, it means lower tourist densities. So it’s easier to secure bookings at the best lodges and camps – which may be a telling factor as our accommodation contacts are reporting an especially rapid uptake of places for the high season later this year. And even the most popular game parks and conservancies can be relatively quiet. There’s also less competition for frequently oversubscribed activities such as gorilla trekking.

Baby elephants - one of the attractions
of our imminent Spring Break Safari

Coming in the off-peak months definitely doesn’t mean compromising on the experience. There will still be amazing game viewing, and the plethora of other cultural and adventure pursuits which complete a safari holiday. In fact, with fewer other tourists about, the spring can be the best time to soak up the atmosphere of Africa in serenity and to really appreciate its wilderness with minimal distraction.

And talking of the spring, we’d like to remind you that there is just time to book a place on our Special Spring Break Safari from March 3-10. We’ve compiled an extraordinary selection of wildlife watching, cultural encounters and sublime luxury at some of Kenya’s finest camps and hotels. So if you’re still looking for your dream holiday this spring, grab one of our limited places while you still can. Click here for full details.

Easy luxury at private lodge

One of the perks of designing safari adventures is the opportunity to take time out ourselves to try out the lodges we consider for our guests’ itineraries. Ol Donyo Lodge in Kenya is a long-standing favourite with Africa House, so it was with optimistic anticipation that we returned there for a short stay last month.

A comfortable bedroom tent at Ol Donyo

And we weren’t disappointed. One of our most striking impressions of this popular lodge on this latest visit was the pure, gratifying comfort of the accommodation. Big, comfy beds, feather pillows, and spacious bathrooms make it hard not to feel relaxed. We enjoyed plentiful hot water supplied by a solar unit and we loved the choice of an indoor or outdoor shower. The private dip pools which most of the cottages have are a particularly indulgent touch. And the striking architecture and attractive design throughout the Ol Donyo property create a beautiful aesthetic experience.

The trip was also a reminder of how special Ol Donyo’s surroundings are. This south-western corner of Kenya is blessed with extraordinary views. The area’s curiously rounded hills roll out into a staggering expanse of savannah while Mount Kilimanjaro lurks beyond. Recent rain brought a green richness to the scene while we were here. These open landscapes and glorious sights make the location apt for the horseriding safaris also available to guests here.

Horse riding at Ol Donyo

With its off-the-track location, Ol Donyo is not at the hub of Kenya’s game-viewing scene (although we did spot cheetah and lion whilst there). But with the Masai Mara nearby, serious safari action is within easy reach. So the lodge makes the ideal retreat for relaxing at the start or end of a more wildlife-focused itinerary. And with its serene, remote location and beautiful, intimate features, we think it is perfect for honeymooners. With so much going for it, Ol Donyo will certainly remain a firm fixture in Africa House’s line-up of top wilderness properties.