The high life

In our last newsletter we reported on our recent action-packed trip to Ndutu in Tanzania. While our account ended there, our exploration of the East African wilderness didn’t. The next stage of our start-of-year holiday took us over the border into Kenya, where the next few days took on a distinctively hilly character.

A house with history

The first hill to climb was that leading to the alluring Grogan’s Castle. This unusual and imposing white-walled mansion is a curious blend of European and Arabic architecture, with more than a hint of bold art deco stylings which reflect its 1930s construction. Wrought-iron entrance gates, wide curving staircases and huge rooms create a sense of grandeur and luxury.

An en-suite bedroom at Grogan's Castle

The elevation of Grogan’s Castle makes for a spectacular stay. On arrival we were struck by the amazing views of the surrounding landscape. Stood atop an isolated hill, the house has breathtaking 360-degrees views, with the towering form of Mount Kilimanjaro which stands nearby dominating the skyline to the north-west. We also gazed out over Lake Jipe and the Pare Mountains.

The mansion comes complete with irresistible historical associations. Ewart Grogan, the man who built the house as his residence over 70 years ago, certainly had an interesting story. He was an influential settler from England with a mixed reputation that included charm, wit and vision, but also arrogance and a rebellious streak. Grogan is best known for being the first person to make the perilous trans-African journey from Cape Town to Cairo, a challenge he undertook to impress the father of Gertrude, the woman he loved. The feat paid off as he later married her. A children’s hospital he built in her name still stands in Nairobi today.

The romance of this story certainly adds to the mystique of the accommodation. And with spacious bedrooms (to which the word ‘double’ hardly does justice), sensitive recent renovations, friendly staff and wonderful food, our time at Grogan’s Castle was one to remember for all the right reasons.

The view with a lodge

Our next stop was out east at Lumo Conservancy and to another elevated location at the renowned Lion’s Bluff eco-lodge. We were taken aback by vast, sweeping vistas over the classic African savannah, sparsely studded with acacia trees and spreading out to mountains on the horizon. The lodge enables you to take in these sights in style, with each of its raised tents complete with its own veranda. It’s unsurprising that Lion’s Bluff is wittily dubbed ‘the view with a lodge’.

A Lion's Bluff cottage

But while the surroundings are breathtaking, the lodge is pretty impressive too, with rustic charm in abundance. With four-poster beds and balcony balustrades crafted from timber in its naturally bumpy, irregular form, and pointed coconut-thatched roofs, it’s heaven for lovers of natural chic living. Excellent cuisine and welcoming, attentive service completed the comfort of our stay.

The thing that you really come to Lumo to enjoy, however, is the incredible game-viewing. Lumo Conservancy, a part of the Tsavo National Park, is a hub of animal activity, and both day and night game drives are available here to make the most of this opportunity. Wildlife highlights during our stay included numerous elephant sightings, following a male lion for hours, a night-time sighting of a striped hyena and wonderful bird sightings (photos of which can be seen below).

This short tour of southern Kenya has reconnected us with the beauty we’re so keen to share with our guests. It serves as a reminder of how amazing wildlife, stunning scenery and gorgeous accommodation combine to make this part of the world so uniquely magical.

Here are a few of our wildlife snaps from Lumo Conservancy:

Lilac-breasted roller

European roller

Lesser kudu

Yellow-necked spur fowl

Bateleur eagle

Yellow-necked spur fowl

A private paradise in Tanzania

For many, the ideal African holiday would include relaxing in the glory of wide open savannahs, bountiful game viewing, and a sense of wilderness balanced with comfort and luxury.

We think that Manyara Ranch in Tanzania, where we sent two groups of guests recently, ticks all of these boxes and more. This private ranch provides simple but beautifully presented accommodation in a 35,000-acre wildlife conservancy in northern Tanzania. The intimacy and exclusivity evoke in guests a feeling of being able to experience their own secluded piece of Africa. The atmosphere is reinforced by the tented accommodation’s classy and comfortable leather armchairs, Wedgewood beds and private decks from which to survey the surrounding vista.

The signpost for Manyara Ranch

Spending time in a conservancy affords the rare privilege of exploring on foot, creating a real feeling of freedom out in the wilderness, under the reassuring eye of an armed escort. And Manyara has much to offer the footloose explorer. The conservancy boasts prides of lions and is known for its ample population of elephants. And besides the classic big game, there are also some more unusual species here to capture the imagination, such as aardvarks, aardwolves and honey badgers.

The camp is also ideally situated for short drives to some of Tanzania’s most famous attractions. The stunningly scenic Lake Manyara National Park, a setting famously prized by Hemingway, is a conveniently short journey from camp. So too is the Tarangire National Park, with its astounding variety and concentration of animal life which includes buffalo, elephants, gerenuk and thousands of bird species.

Stylish tented accommodation at Manyara Ranch

But what makes Manyara Ranch special isn’t just its dream location but also the warm hospitality and comfort to which visitors are treated. Chris and Joanna, who run the camp, impart a passion and sincerity which make them an instant hit with guests. The personal touches, conscientious attention to detail, and great fresh food combine to make Manyara a gem for guests to Africa. But don’t just take our word for it. Here’s some of the feedback we received from those guests we sent last month:

“Thank you for an unforgettable experience. Your warmth and guidance was wonderful. We felt welcome from the start – all of your smiles, help and companionship made our time here comfortable, relaxing as well as exciting and educational. Thank you especially for giving the children special love and attention. We do not want to leave this paradise on earth. Thank you for taking care of it.”

“Thank you for a fantastic experience … the intimate climate of the camp, great food, welcoming spirit, and incredible sights. Our family's dream was realized – a true African adventure.”

“Joanna, Chris and the fabulous staff at Manyara ranch, you have given us the experience of a lifetime - everything was amazing. This place is a paradise.”

Tree Climbing Lioness in Lake Nakuru National Park!

Africa House Safaris is based in Africa's Great Rift Valley, on a farm which looks out towards Lake Nakuru, a shallow lake famous for its sprawling flocks of flamingos. 'Nakuru', meaning 'dust' or 'dusty place' in the Maasai language, is currently far from being a dusty place, having seen many inches of glorious rain in the past few months! Wild grasses are lush and long, providing a hunting challenge for predators such as lions.

On a recent day trip to Lake Nakuru National Park we were fortunate to see this very rare sight: a beautiful lioness using a tree as a vantage point from which to keep herds of plains game such as zebra and impala in its sight. Whilst leopards are well known for their tree-climbing behaviour, it is very rare to spot a lion up a tree!