Where the wild things are

The past few weeks have been a whirlwind of wildlife activity in the Masai Mara as the great wildebeest migration has been in full flow. And one camp whose location makes the most of this annual spectacle is Sala’s Camp. Even outside migration season this is a sensational spot for wildlife, with elephants, buffalo, giraffes and diverse birdlife on display in a remote and private setting. But when the wildebeest herds arrive, Sala’s explodes with life.

Dramatic river crossings can be witnessed from Sala's Camp

Sala’s Camp is located in the heart of the African wilderness, at the fringes of the Masai Mara and overlooking the Serengeti just over the border in Tanzania. What makes Sala’s particularly special during the migration is the camp’s proximity to where the Sand and the Keekorok rivers meet. This delivers the thrillingly dramatic sight of countless thousands of wildebeest and zebra making their life-or-death bid to swim the river whilst also evading eager attackers.

The camp is passed by the migration both on its way north into the Serengeti and on its way back south. It is the return journey that the camp has reported seeing over recent days. The unimaginable abundance of wildebeest in the region at this time has, as you would expect, attracted more than a little attention from predators. The area’s resident lions have been out in force, providing some intimate big cat sightings for the lucky recent guests at Sala’s.

A tented bedroom at Sala's Camp

But we love Sala’s Camp for more than just its amazing animals. It’s also a pleasure to take guests there because of its great hospitality and comfort. Wild it may be, but there’s no shortage of creature comforts to provide the luxury and relaxation that are crucial ingredients of every Africa House safari.

If you like the sound of Sala’s Camp, we’d love to take you there. Whether it’s timed to coincide with the migration and its incomparable drama, or at another time of the year, a safari at Sala’s guarantees an action-packed slice of Africa.

The perfect spot for migration spectacle

There are few greater wildlife spectacles on Earth than the great annual wildebeest migration. And with the colossal herd just starting to arrive in Kenya now, there are few better places to witness the event than at the perfectly positioned Sala’s Camp.

Preparing for dinner at Sala's Camp

Located on the very southern edge of the Masai Mara, Sala’s Camp has the privilege of being the very first camp in the game reserve to observe the arrival of the wildebeest from the Serengeti. The camp is just a short drive away from the river which the animals must cross as they arrive on Kenyan soil. This allows guests to get a sensational view of the high-drama struggle of thousands upon thousands of wildebeest making the crossing. Predators, which are numerous in this area, stalk the travelling herds, awaiting their opportunity to attack. As well as the numerous big cats found here, there are leopards, zebras and a plethora of other wildlife, making it a dream for wildlife-lovers.

Despite being set in the world famous Masai Mara reserve, Sala’s Camp enjoys a surprisingly remote location with the magical Sand River providing a beautiful feature. This makes for a true African wilderness experience, and a tranquil and serene stay – aside, of course, from those countless thousands of hooves which are passing through around now!

Sala's Camp at night

In addition to its remarkable location, Sala’s offers world-class hospitality. The hosts are warm and welcoming, and have a knack for making guests feel special with their great food, attentive service, and activities to enthral kids. And although this is simple tented accommodation, the camp is stylish, with a distinct feel of cosy African homeliness.

Sala’s Camp would be an enticing prospect at any time, but with the migration converging here, the camp also becomes a front row seat for one of the most breathtaking scenes in nature’s great theatre. The latest news on this year’s migration is that the wildebeest have been slow to make the passage across from the Serengeti into the Masai Mara but that the move is now underway, led by a herd of zebras, the wildebeest’s travelling companions – so guests at Sala’s Camp can expect an incredible show.

Cats, calves and coffee boys

When we’re not arranging safaris for our guests, we love to take the opportunity to explore the wonders of East Africa for ourselves. We did just that last month as friends from the UK joined us on safari in Ndutu, located in the southern part of Tanzania’s renowned Serengeti National Park. Around January, this corner of the Serengeti becomes an epicentre of wildlife activity, with game gathering and alternating between long and short grass plains – so we were hopeful about the prospect of witnessing some dramatic action. Fortunately, we were treated to precisely that, as a variety of Africa’s most mesmerising natural spectacles played out before us.

The 'Coffee Boys' after taking
down a wildebeest

The region provided a generous display of big cat activity. Huge prides of lions paraded the plains, combining with the landscape to create a very iconic African scene. And we were lucky to see often-elusive cheetahs going about their business. We came upon the ‘coffee boys’ known in this region – three cheetah brothers who have been named Mocha, Latte and Espresso. We watched the group for a whole morning as they killed a wildebeest then two tore into the carcass while the third kept watch for intruders who might be curious about their catch.

Ndutu is also the perfect place to see wildebeest at the start of the year. As part of their perpetual migration around the Serengeti-Masai Mara ecosystem, many of the animals are concentrated here in January. And what makes this stage of the migration special is the onset of calving season – with 80% of wildebeest being born from January to mid-March. We were lucky to see a newly born wildebeest calf. Witnessing the tender moment between mother and child revealed a rare personal aspect to a species which usually summons up images of vast herds traversing the savannah in unison – a spectacular but contrasting sight which can be seen later in the season.

A baby wildebeest with its mother

The Serengeti also hosts a staggering abundance and variety of bird life, evidence of which is especially apparent during this season. A definite ornithological highlight for us was seeing a huge group of white storks gathered on the plains. These unmistakable birds, with their long beaks and hulking forms, had flown in from Europe. They spend winter in Africa before returning north later where they take a break from delivering babies to human mums and settle to raise their own young!

On top of our amazing wildlife experiences in Ndutu, the safari was enhanced further by the quality of our accommodation at Lake Masek Tented Camp. Understated rustic simplicity provided the ideal complement to the sublime wilderness surrounding the camp. Raised on wooden platforms, each tent comes with a veranda, taking full opportunity of the momentous views. Comfortable beds in generous bedroom spaces, plentiful hot water and outdoor showers provided all the comfort we needed. And that all-important element of great service was also present here – our friendly, attentive hosts ensured that we were well looked after, and even went as far as offering to re-stitch a damaged beanbag we use as a camera support in our vehicle. Extra care like that is something which you don’t expect.

White storks arriving from Europe

Witnessing the theatre of the Serengeti at an active moment while also experiencing fine African hospitality, our holiday amounted to being in the right place at the right time. For our companions and us, this trip was a great example of what safari is all about – fun, drama and luxury.

Migration news

It’s that time of year again when one of the greatest wildlife spectacles in Kenya – and on Earth – takes place. The first waves of migrating wildebeest arrived last month at the Mara River to make the treacherous crossing over the water from the Serengeti into the Masai Mara. Herds of zebras added their mass monochromatic decoration to the busy scene as they followed behind.

Masses of wildebeest and zebras have made their way
into the Masai Mara.

We have been lucky to see the action unfold while in the Masai Mara with guests again this year. And the groups we’ve hosted have been treated to some of the most dramatic scenes we remember seeing here in July. The sheer number of animals making the crossing has been striking, with thousands upon thousands of wildebeest already seen struggling to traverse the Mara River. There has been an awesome sense of excitement in the camp – and a wonderful show for the big family group and a regular Africa House safari-goer who have been here with us during these magical few weeks.

This movement into the Masai Mara is part of a wider circular migration which takes place in East Africa every year. Over a million wildebeest, together with hundreds of thousands of zebras and gazelle, make the continuous journey in search of fresh grass to eat. The animals follow a clockwise path around the Serengeti ecosystem of Tanzania and the smaller Masai Mara region which extends into Kenya.

The river crossings, which begin at variable times around the middle of the year, are considered a highlight of the migration. Large concentrations of the travelling animals gather to make the dangerous swim across the Mara and Talek rivers, facing the threat of crocodiles from below and the prospect of lions and cheetahs at the other side. This spectacle shows African nature at its most bountiful and most brutal.

Spectacles and celebrity spots

The Masai Mara reserve is always a safe bet for great African wildlife spotting, but this year’s migration season has been impressive, even by the usual standards.

Over the past few weeks, much of our safari activity has been focused on the awesome spectacle of the great migration in which massive numbers of wildebeest, zebras and gazelle cross the Mara River from the Serengeti onto Kenyan soil. This year’s generous rains have not only brought a lush landscape for our guests to enjoy, but also seem to have attracted more wildebeest to the region than we’ve seen in recent years.


Migrating wildebeest, gathering to make the treacherous river crossing.



The crocodiles which prey on these migrating grazers as they cross the Mara River have been more than adequately supplied with food during this migration. At one stage we witnessed the bizarre sight of wildebeest using the crocodiles beneath them as stepping stones to traverse the river. The indifference of these well-fed predators combined with the vigorous flow of a river which was swelling due to the generous rainfall actually made this the safest option for some of the travelling animals.

It has also been a bumper season for big cat appearances. Our guests have been treated to abundant sightings of lions, some being lucky enough to see large prides with their cubs in tow. A further cause for excitement has been the frequent showing of leopards, which are far less numerous than lions in the Masai Mara.

We’ve been delighted to see Zawadi, one of Kenya’s resident ‘celebrity’ leopards, identifiable by a distinctive line of spots under her right eye. Her photogenic looks and relative ease with human attention have earned her worldwide renown amongst wildlife lovers. She has even been one of the stars of a BBC’s ‘Big Cat Diaries’ documentary series, in which she goes by the name of Shadow. Click here to see a video of her employing her stealth and speed to hunt her prey.

Zawadi, aka Shadow, who has become known around the world.

As if that wasn’t enough animal activity for our guests to witness, the elephants have been getting in on the action too. At Africa House we’re renowned for the excellent service we provide, so if dinner is delayed there must be a good reason for it. When a family of elephants decided to investigate our guests’ eating area at Little Governor’s Camp recently, we got a more intimate wildlife encounter than anyone had bargained for. With an experience like that to take home, it’s no surprise that nobody minded waiting for their meal!