Great starts and happy endings

In planning a safari holiday, the focus naturally tends to be on the thrilling days and nights spent out in the bush. But choosing the right property for settling into Africa when you arrive, and for winding down at the end, can embellish your time here with a complementary experience that rounds off your African adventure perfectly.

That’s why we were delighted to acquaint ourselves with Onsea House, a gem of a guest house near Arusha in Tanzania, on our recent expedition in the region in search of the best accommodation for our guests. And for those who covet maximum R&R in a holiday, Onsea House is now joined by a sister property, Machweo. This ‘wellness retreat’ is the place to be if pampering is on your tick-list. Whether it’s a swim in the pool, an avocado oil jacuzzi, a steam bath or a deep tissue massage, there’s everything you need here to leave you relaxed and revitalised.

Despite being just a few miles from the centre of Arusha, Onsea provides a thoroughly serene location. Landscaped gardens create a luxurious and calming immediate scene. But the real star is Africa’s own landscapes beyond. Rolling hills studded with baobab and acacia trees stretch up to the glorious Mount Meru on the horizon. Onsea House’s elevated position takes full advantage of these inspiring views and makes watching the sunset here especially enchanting.

The house itself strikes just the right balance between privacy and personal service. Priding itself on being ‘a home from home’, Onsea goes to great lengths to create a sense of comfort. With a relatively small number of guests accommodated at any one time, the focus really is on a quality experience. Inside, the style is understated and classy, with a clean and contemporary look which is warmed with touches of woody rusticity that you’d hope for in Africa.

Foodies are in for a treat at Onsea. Michelin-experienced chef Axel is clearly a man in the know when it comes to quality cuisine. He combines his Belgian roots with his current surroundings to deliver excellent fusion food – classic European dishes with accents from Africa.

We would return to Onsea House and Machweo without hesitation. The great service, amazing food, chic accommodation and gorgeous surroundings combine to make this guest house and retreat a pretty irresistible stop-off while in Tanzania. But more importantly, it’s another stunning accommodation to which we can take our guests – with the confidence that they’ll enjoy the standard of quality which would be expected from an Africa House safari experience.

Seven fascinating facts about the majestic Maasai

1. The Maasai, who live across Kenya and northern Tanzania, are Probably Africa’s best-known tribe, and are the embodiment of a quintessentially traditional way of life in East Africa. They have become a symbol of African culture because of their strong identity and the preservation of their unique lifestyle but are by no means one of the biggest tribes in the region. In fact, the Kikuyu and Luhya tribes are among the most populous of the 40–70 tribes living in Kenya, this total count varying according to how the groups are classified.

2. Cattle have always been at the centre of the Maasai way of life. Cattle-herding remains the primary occupation for many Maasai and the tribe shares a religious belief that all cattle were given to the Maasai by their god. Some Maasai people’s diets consist entirely of meat, blood and milk provided by their cattle.

The Maasai in their bright and intricate dress

3. The Maasai are a multilingual society. As well as speaking their own language, called Maa, the tribe speak English and Swahili, the official languages of Kenya and Tanzania. The rich tribal diversity and assortment of historical influences in East Africa have endowed the countries with a plethora of languages and dialects.

4. Their brightly coloured clothing is one of the most striking and distinguishing features of the Maasai. The loosely wrapped robes worn by both men and women are called shuka and are usually a vivid red, a colour the tribe associates with power – although other colours are worn too, with orange, blue and black being popular. The Maasai’s look is usually completed with beautiful and intricate jewellery, which includes multi-coloured beaded necklaces and wood bracelets.

5. The ‘jumping dance’ for which the Maasai are famous the world over is called adamu. The men of the community form a line or circle and take turns to jump in the centre, the height of the leaps denoting their strength as tribal warriors. The music of the Maasai is traditionally performed with the human voice alone, the harmonic chanting providing the rhythm while one singer performs the melody. The dance and music of the Maasai are one of the most memorable and life-affirming things to experience when visiting East Africa.

6. The Maasai continue to live a semi-nomadic life, despite pressures to settle in one spot. They travel with their beloved cattle, and other livestock such as goats and sheep, moving the animals seasonally to supply them with fresh pastures. When they’re not on the move, the Maasai live in inkajijik, houses built from earth, sticks, grass, and the dung and urine of cows.

7. The Maasai are renowned for the warm welcome they extend to guests and love to talk and to share ideas. Arranging a cultural encounter with the Maasai tribe as part of a safari allows you an unforgettable insight into the lives of these vibrant and inspiring people.

Sun, sand and spice in historical Zanzibar

A boat on the beautiful Zanzibar beach

Think of East Africa and it’s likely your imagination will summon up dramatic expanses of savannah and famous safari game like lions, elephants and wildebeest. But while this is the aspect of the region guests usually come to see, there’s a wholly different side to East Africa too. Perhaps the best way to experience this contrast is to journey less than 30 miles off the Tanzanian mainland to Zanzibar Island.
This beautiful spot in the Indian Ocean is the ideal complement to an action-packed safari adventure. With long, white sandy beaches, coconut palms, rainbow-coloured coral reefs and warm, turqouise water, it has all the hallmarks of a tropical island paradise.

An ornate Zanzibari doorway

But while Zanzibar is an idyllic retreat for chilling beside the ocean, what makes it so special is that it boasts such diverse treats besides that. The island’s eventful history has endowed it with a rich and kaleidoscopic heritage. Successive invasions, empires and influences make today’s Zanzibar a fascinating mix of arhitecture, culture and customs. This is most apparent in Stone Town, the island’s historic centre and a UN World Heritage Site. Here, the Arabic influence of Zanzibar is evident in beautiful mosques, palaces and bazaars. Ambling through the town’s narrow, winding alleyways and past its whitewashed buildings is the perfect way to embrace the romanticism and mystery of this unique place.

Another facet to Zanzibar is its long association with exotic spices. From the early nineteenth century it was realised that the island, with its regular rainfall, warm climate and rich soil, offered the perfect conditions for growing a range of spice plants. Zanzibar thus became a globally important supplier of spices that include cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, turmeric and saffron. Spice plantations still operate today, albeit on a smaller scale, and regular tours allow you to visit them to see the process by which these fragrant, exotic crops are cultivated.

The Old Fort in Stone Town

So despite being a small island of less than a million people, it’s unsurprising that Zanzibar, with such tempting and diverse features, has become famous the world over as a luxury holiday destination. If you would like to experience Zanzibar for yourself, we’d love to take you there.

Five fascinating flamingo facts

1. The flamingos that are a characteristic presence along the Great Rift Valley in East Africa are actually lesser flamingos. They are found around the lakes throughout Ethiopia, Kenya and Tanzania. These are marked out from five other species of flamingo by their relatively small size and black colouring on their bills.

2. It is not known whether the populations of lesser flamingos in East Africa are genetically related to a smaller isolated population living in India. But a new study being conducted at the UK’s University of Leicester is aiming to discover just that, through genetic research on feathers from birds at each location. Revealing whether or not these groups of flamingos are distinct or whether they interact might clear up long-standing mystery about their migratory patterns.

3. Flamingos feed on blue-green algae, and to a lesser extent, shrimp. Surprisingly, it is the algae that give the lesser flamingo its characteristic soft pink colouring, as they are virtually all this species eats. The algae contain a photosynthetic pigment which is expressed in the birds’ plumage. The particular algae favoured by flamingos, mainly Spirulina, only grow in alkaline water, which explains the concentrations of the birds around the soda lakes of the Great Rift Valley.

4. It is thought by many that the flamingo may have inspired the ancient myth of the phoenix, the immortal firebird which burns periodically then is reborn from the ashes. The flamingo, as well as having a majestic stature and otherworldly bright colouring, has another feature which is phoenix-like – flamingos build a raised mound nest above salt flats, which are too hot for the eggs, creating a convection effect that resembles the flames you might expect during a phoenix re-birth.

5. East Africa is home to over 2 million lesser flamingos, the largest concentration in the world. They create a vast sea of pink as they gather at their regular breeding ground at Lake Natron, in Tanzania, close to the Kenya border. They also appear in huge flocks in Kenya at Lake Nakuru (their main feeding ground) and Lake Bogoria.

Click here to see a stunning film of flamingos at Lake Bogoria:

Positive steps for coastal environment in Tanzania

East Africa’s natural heritage is a highly prized asset for local people and guests alike. So it is encouraging that an initiative to protect Tanzania’s delicate coastal environment has been so successful that it has received a prestigious award.


The bizarre dugong, for which Tanzania's
coasts are a vital habitat

The project, led by top conservation organisation WWF, aimed to safeguard the ecological well-being of marine life around the districts of Rufiji Delta, Mafia Island and Kilwa. Practices such as dynamite fishing had damaged the area’s fragile ecosystem, threatening the health of coral reefs, mangrove forest and important species such as the dugong. They also jeopardised the long-term security of fisheries on which communities in these areas depend heavily for livelihoods and as an important source of dietary protein.

WWF has collaborated with the local fishing communities to promote a more sustainable approach to fishing and to stimulate economic alternatives to fishing. This partnership has resulted in a rise in fish stocks and a drop in damaging practices, helping to secure the coastal environment and the future of fishing in the region.

The project was named ‘International Relief and Development Project of the Year’ by The Association for Project Management, a UK-based charity set up to recognise excellence in projects organised for the public benefit.

New activities on offer in Tanzania

Africa House is pleased to be able to offer guests a tempting selection of actvities to consider whilst visiting Arusha in Tanzania. The latest a range of options provide another facet to an African holiday to add to the wildlife safaris or Kilimanjaro mountain climbing guests primarily come to enjoy.

The extra pursuits are designed to help guests make the most of their time in Tanzania by doing something educational, culturally interesting, or simply indulgent. They provide the ideal way to settle in and acclimatise before a main safari or climb – or to wind down and say farewell at the end. Guests are often surprised at how much a supplementary activity can add to their experience of a trip to Africa. These asides can sometimes turn out to be the most memorable part of a visit.

Here's a summary of the extra activities now available to guests visiting Arusha pre- or post-safari or Kilimanjaro climb:

Town walk

This free half-day escorted wander through the small town of Usa River provides an authentic window into the everyday life of Tanzanians, and a chance to enjoy the vibrant culture of ordinary shops and markets.

Coffee tour

An opportunity to see the production of one of Tanzania’s most important exports and one of the world’s favourite beverages on a working coffee farm. A guide takes guests through the fascinating process of coffee farming, from plant cultivation to the roasting of the seeds. The half-day trip also includes lunch – and the chance, of course, to sample and to take home some of the coffee produced here.

Cultural village visit
This half-day visit gives guests a tour of the pretty mountain village of Mulala. It provides an insight into lives of local people in what is largely a subsistence farming community. There are trips to banana and coffee plantations, which are economically important here, and the tour includes an authentic African meal.

Country club experience
Those who are seeking relaxation and pampering, perhaps following the flight on the way in or after the activity of a mountain climb or safari, need look no further than the Nduruma Country Club. With views of Mount Kilimanjaro in one direction, and Mount Meru in another, and set in thousands of acres of tranquil open savannah, this really is a country club with a difference. While here, guests can choose from an extensive list of relaxing options, whether it’s swimming in the pool, chilling in the spa or indulging in a massage or beauty treatment. Available as a half- or full-day extra, Nduruma also offers horseriding, tennis lessons, and sundowners complete with great food, wines and local beers.

If you think a trip to Tanzania is for you, get in touch to talk over your options. Whether you’d like to see the country’s best wildlife spots or take on the challenge of a climb up Mount Kilimanjaro, we can arrange it for you – and you can add any of the extras above to round off your holiday.

A private paradise in Tanzania

For many, the ideal African holiday would include relaxing in the glory of wide open savannahs, bountiful game viewing, and a sense of wilderness balanced with comfort and luxury.

We think that Manyara Ranch in Tanzania, where we sent two groups of guests recently, ticks all of these boxes and more. This private ranch provides simple but beautifully presented accommodation in a 35,000-acre wildlife conservancy in northern Tanzania. The intimacy and exclusivity evoke in guests a feeling of being able to experience their own secluded piece of Africa. The atmosphere is reinforced by the tented accommodation’s classy and comfortable leather armchairs, Wedgewood beds and private decks from which to survey the surrounding vista.

The signpost for Manyara Ranch

Spending time in a conservancy affords the rare privilege of exploring on foot, creating a real feeling of freedom out in the wilderness, under the reassuring eye of an armed escort. And Manyara has much to offer the footloose explorer. The conservancy boasts prides of lions and is known for its ample population of elephants. And besides the classic big game, there are also some more unusual species here to capture the imagination, such as aardvarks, aardwolves and honey badgers.

The camp is also ideally situated for short drives to some of Tanzania’s most famous attractions. The stunningly scenic Lake Manyara National Park, a setting famously prized by Hemingway, is a conveniently short journey from camp. So too is the Tarangire National Park, with its astounding variety and concentration of animal life which includes buffalo, elephants, gerenuk and thousands of bird species.

Stylish tented accommodation at Manyara Ranch

But what makes Manyara Ranch special isn’t just its dream location but also the warm hospitality and comfort to which visitors are treated. Chris and Joanna, who run the camp, impart a passion and sincerity which make them an instant hit with guests. The personal touches, conscientious attention to detail, and great fresh food combine to make Manyara a gem for guests to Africa. But don’t just take our word for it. Here’s some of the feedback we received from those guests we sent last month:

“Thank you for an unforgettable experience. Your warmth and guidance was wonderful. We felt welcome from the start – all of your smiles, help and companionship made our time here comfortable, relaxing as well as exciting and educational. Thank you especially for giving the children special love and attention. We do not want to leave this paradise on earth. Thank you for taking care of it.”

“Thank you for a fantastic experience … the intimate climate of the camp, great food, welcoming spirit, and incredible sights. Our family's dream was realized – a true African adventure.”

“Joanna, Chris and the fabulous staff at Manyara ranch, you have given us the experience of a lifetime - everything was amazing. This place is a paradise.”

5 good reasons to visit Tanzania

1) The famous Mount Kilimanjaro

Even if you have no intention of conquering its heights, Kilimanjaro is one of Africa’s most majestic sights. Its towering, snow-tipped form makes for a surreal and spectacular backdrop whilst out on safari. For those looking for a more active engagement with the mountain, an organised climb offers the opportunity of a lifetime to tackle one of world’s most famous physical challenges. Although it’s Africa’s highest point, standing at just shy of 6000m, Kilimanjaro is a relatively amateur-friendly mountain to climb. It’s tough, as any of the numerous celebrity accounts of the climb testify, but there’s no hanging off vertical rockfaces by a pick-axe! And you’ll be rewarded not only by the incredible personal achievement but also by seeing some of the most breathtaking views on Earth.

2) Exceptional wildlife viewing



Rhinos are among the huge variety of animals in Tanzania

Tanzania boasts some of Africa’s very finest game-viewing opportunities in its many National Parks and reserves. The most renowned of these is undoubtedly the Serengeti region, with its vast plains which are home to such animals as lions, cheetahs, hippos, crocodiles and warthogs, to name but a few. This huge park also hosts the spectacular mass migration of wildebeest and zebras. With most of this annual journey taking place on Tanzanian soil, you have a good chance of catching some stage of the migration virtually whenever you visit.

3) Stunning volcanic landscapes

Besides the huge moutains which it boasts, Tanzania provides plenty more in the way of magnificent scenery. One outstanding highlight is the Ngorongoro Crater, a spectacular natural phenomenon. The crater is the result of a collapsed volcano called a caldera. As well as providing the extraordinary spectacle of a naturally sunken landscape surrounded by higher ground, the crater is also home to a huge variety of wildlife, including all of Africa’s Big Five.



4) Beautiful beaches

For those who like to include an element of beach relaxation in their safari itinerary, Tanzania is hard to top. The best of Tanzania’s beaches are found on the islands just off the mainland, including Mafia Island, Pemba Island and, the most famously, Zanzibar. Soft white sand and palm trees make these Indian Ocean islands a beach-lover’s paradise – allowing you to laze in the sunshine, swim in crystal clear water or undertake a more active pursuit like scuba diving. But there’s also the allure of a land steeped in tantalising history and culture. Zanzibar’s Stone Town offers a fascinating cultural insight through its ancient and atmospheric architecture and the evidence of its still-thriving exotic spice trade.

5) Wonderful people

Tanzania is home to a bewildering array
of tribes, including the Maasai

Tanzanians have earned a reputation for their warmth and modesty, traits which leave a lasting impression on visitors. The country is a glowing model of harmonious diversity, with over 100 ethnic groups living peacefully side-by-side. Tanzania’s varied influences from Africa, Arabia, Europe and India make its culture a rich tapestry. The graceful Maasai, with their colourful clothes and gloriously positive outlook, are among the country’s best-known tribal presences. Those who take the opportunity to explore the arts and culture of the Tanzanian people are rewarded by a vibrant medley of creative ideas. From bold sculptures and colourful paintings to the enchantingly rhythmic music and dance of the Swahili tradition, there’s plenty to please the senses.

We take the Shira Route to the roof of Africa

By Terry Brownbill

At the summit of Kilimanjaro

We have just returned from climbing Kilimanjaro, taking the Shira Route, which is the mountaineer purist’s route. We were a party of four and it took 22 porters and three guides to get us to the top. We reached Uhuru Peak after six very cold nights and seven glorious days. It certainly ranked as one of life’s great experiences.

Many thousands of people attempt the Kili climb each year and most take the Marangu Route, also known as the Coca Cola Route. The Marangu Route is crowded and the path to the top is well worn. It also only takes four days.



The official Egg Porter
during the climb!

The Shira Route, favoured by Africa House Safaris and our Tanzanian partners Nordic Travel (the Arusha-based mountain specialist who provided the most fantastic team of guides and porters), is more exclusive, more of a challenge and, paradoxically, has a higher summit success rate (97%) than the easier Marangu Route (40%).

No matter how fit you are, there is no shortcut to allowing your body to acclimatise to high altitude. Our Shira Route may have been longer and more arduous (and also much more scenic and spectacular) but we acclimatised perfectly and suffered no ill effects as a result.

Clever planning by Nordic Travel’s mountain guides meant that we always camped at a lower altitude than we had been walking during the day. The mantra ‘walk high and sleep low’ really does work.

A stunning mountain view

The vast majority of Kili climbers have to begin their ascent of Uhuru Peak at midnight, arriving at the top six frozen hours later as the sun is coming up and then they begin their 10-hour descent after just half an hour at the top.

Our final ascent was much more pleasurable and civilised. On our last night, we camped close to the Furtwanger Glacier in the crater at a little over 19,750ft, just 90 metres from the summit. We rose at 7am, tucked into yet another wonderful breakfast and enjoyed a one-and-a-half hour walk to the top in brilliant sunshine. Life just doesn’t get any better.

Terry’s wife Angie also did the climb - she wanted to summit Kili on her 50th Birthday. This also made for the perfect opportunity to raise some money for the London Air Ambulance, which is her law company's adopted charity this year. Angie managed to raise £6,000 for this worthy charity!