Cats, calves and coffee boys

When we’re not arranging safaris for our guests, we love to take the opportunity to explore the wonders of East Africa for ourselves. We did just that last month as friends from the UK joined us on safari in Ndutu, located in the southern part of Tanzania’s renowned Serengeti National Park. Around January, this corner of the Serengeti becomes an epicentre of wildlife activity, with game gathering and alternating between long and short grass plains – so we were hopeful about the prospect of witnessing some dramatic action. Fortunately, we were treated to precisely that, as a variety of Africa’s most mesmerising natural spectacles played out before us.

The 'Coffee Boys' after taking
down a wildebeest

The region provided a generous display of big cat activity. Huge prides of lions paraded the plains, combining with the landscape to create a very iconic African scene. And we were lucky to see often-elusive cheetahs going about their business. We came upon the ‘coffee boys’ known in this region – three cheetah brothers who have been named Mocha, Latte and Espresso. We watched the group for a whole morning as they killed a wildebeest then two tore into the carcass while the third kept watch for intruders who might be curious about their catch.

Ndutu is also the perfect place to see wildebeest at the start of the year. As part of their perpetual migration around the Serengeti-Masai Mara ecosystem, many of the animals are concentrated here in January. And what makes this stage of the migration special is the onset of calving season – with 80% of wildebeest being born from January to mid-March. We were lucky to see a newly born wildebeest calf. Witnessing the tender moment between mother and child revealed a rare personal aspect to a species which usually summons up images of vast herds traversing the savannah in unison – a spectacular but contrasting sight which can be seen later in the season.

A baby wildebeest with its mother

The Serengeti also hosts a staggering abundance and variety of bird life, evidence of which is especially apparent during this season. A definite ornithological highlight for us was seeing a huge group of white storks gathered on the plains. These unmistakable birds, with their long beaks and hulking forms, had flown in from Europe. They spend winter in Africa before returning north later where they take a break from delivering babies to human mums and settle to raise their own young!

On top of our amazing wildlife experiences in Ndutu, the safari was enhanced further by the quality of our accommodation at Lake Masek Tented Camp. Understated rustic simplicity provided the ideal complement to the sublime wilderness surrounding the camp. Raised on wooden platforms, each tent comes with a veranda, taking full opportunity of the momentous views. Comfortable beds in generous bedroom spaces, plentiful hot water and outdoor showers provided all the comfort we needed. And that all-important element of great service was also present here – our friendly, attentive hosts ensured that we were well looked after, and even went as far as offering to re-stitch a damaged beanbag we use as a camera support in our vehicle. Extra care like that is something which you don’t expect.

White storks arriving from Europe

Witnessing the theatre of the Serengeti at an active moment while also experiencing fine African hospitality, our holiday amounted to being in the right place at the right time. For our companions and us, this trip was a great example of what safari is all about – fun, drama and luxury.

Spectacles and celebrity spots

The Masai Mara reserve is always a safe bet for great African wildlife spotting, but this year’s migration season has been impressive, even by the usual standards.

Over the past few weeks, much of our safari activity has been focused on the awesome spectacle of the great migration in which massive numbers of wildebeest, zebras and gazelle cross the Mara River from the Serengeti onto Kenyan soil. This year’s generous rains have not only brought a lush landscape for our guests to enjoy, but also seem to have attracted more wildebeest to the region than we’ve seen in recent years.


Migrating wildebeest, gathering to make the treacherous river crossing.



The crocodiles which prey on these migrating grazers as they cross the Mara River have been more than adequately supplied with food during this migration. At one stage we witnessed the bizarre sight of wildebeest using the crocodiles beneath them as stepping stones to traverse the river. The indifference of these well-fed predators combined with the vigorous flow of a river which was swelling due to the generous rainfall actually made this the safest option for some of the travelling animals.

It has also been a bumper season for big cat appearances. Our guests have been treated to abundant sightings of lions, some being lucky enough to see large prides with their cubs in tow. A further cause for excitement has been the frequent showing of leopards, which are far less numerous than lions in the Masai Mara.

We’ve been delighted to see Zawadi, one of Kenya’s resident ‘celebrity’ leopards, identifiable by a distinctive line of spots under her right eye. Her photogenic looks and relative ease with human attention have earned her worldwide renown amongst wildlife lovers. She has even been one of the stars of a BBC’s ‘Big Cat Diaries’ documentary series, in which she goes by the name of Shadow. Click here to see a video of her employing her stealth and speed to hunt her prey.

Zawadi, aka Shadow, who has become known around the world.

As if that wasn’t enough animal activity for our guests to witness, the elephants have been getting in on the action too. At Africa House we’re renowned for the excellent service we provide, so if dinner is delayed there must be a good reason for it. When a family of elephants decided to investigate our guests’ eating area at Little Governor’s Camp recently, we got a more intimate wildlife encounter than anyone had bargained for. With an experience like that to take home, it’s no surprise that nobody minded waiting for their meal!   

Africa House Safaris offers a truly amazing set of luxurious Safari options for 2010!

 

Beautiful Binti kept us spellbound for hours in the Mara

We have come to the end of a memorable year despite the difficult economic conditions worldwide. We have not been entirely immune from this financial glitch but, thanks to the support of travel agents and friends who continue to holiday with us year after year, we have enjoyed some fantastic safaris in Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda and Ethiopia.

It has been a year of spectacular journeys, life-enhancing experiences and we have fulfilled a great many dreams along the way. It doesn't get any better! We had some really special moments watching nature in its most wild and raw during the Mara migration. The life and death drama of thousands of wildebeest running the gauntlet of hundreds of crocodiles and lions as they cross the Talek and Mara Rivers was absolutely mesmerising. No matter how many times I watch it, I am awe-struck.

 

Well fed lions chill out on a hill as they survey the ‘menu’ below

We had some very close encounters with gorillas in Rwanda. A mother and baby decided to lie on me as I was filming them. Looking deep into those beautifully intelligent and understanding eyes at very close quarters was a really heart warming moment. It was a spectacularly exciting moment.

Sharing a magical moment with a gentle gorilla

The people who make our safaris so wonderful are our guests, many of whom are now great family friends. We have been privileged to enjoy the company of some wonderful families from Arkansas, California, New York, Seattle and Florida and we look forward to seeing them again in the near future. It has also given us a great thrill to have provided many couples from the UK with the honeymoon of a lifetime.

It’s not just the lions who get to chill out, there’s plenty of down time for our guests too!

To round off our year we commissioned a professional photographer and a filmmaker to record a spectacular family safari in Laikipia, Samburu, Masai Mara and, the stunning Rusinga Island on Lake Victoria. We had fantastic fun making the film and we think it illustrates beyond doubt what makes our bespoke intimate and family-orientated safaris such a life-enhancing experience.

A moving and memorable shot for the family album

Watch out for the DVD, which will be available from the end of February. In the mean time take a look at our gallery of photographs taken throughout the safari on the Africa House Safaris facebook site.

For those of you who thought there was no way we could improve on the safari experiences we offer, we have developed a truly amazing set of luxurious options for 2010. Africa House Safaris has built relationships with a wide selection of the most interesting, enthusiastic and knowledgeable experts from a variety of backgrounds including fine art, photography, natural history, gastronomy, horse riding, conservation and politics.

Throughout the year we will introduce a varied range of special safaris accompanied by experts who will act as tutors or give a series of talks as well as being available for more informal conversations along the way. These safaris also benefit from the services of local professional safari guides to ensure they run smoothly.

Awesome Samburu high jumping in Laikipia

We are also expanding our offering to include expert-led safaris on the First World War battlefields across Kenya and Tanzania; wildlife and landscape painting safaris for those who want to enhance their painting skills; and golfing safaris for bespoke groups who want to experience Kenya’s world-class golf courses and those up-country courses that are steeped in old-world charm.

An African sunrise to lift the spirits

2010 promises to be an action-packed year. We are also exploring new itineraries and extensions in Tanzania, Mozambique, Zimbabwe, and Namibia. We are conducting a ‘recce’ of all these destinations in the Spring with a view to opening up whole new horizons for adventurous families and groups of friends. So watch this space. In May we are making a whistle-stop tour of the States to promote our new offerings and we look forward to catching up with old friends. 

Talk to you in 2010.

Suggy