Five things you might not know about zebras

1. There are three species of zebra living in the African wild: the plains (or Burchell’s) zebra, the Grévy's zebra and the mountain zebra. The plains zebra is the commonest species to be found. The Grévy's, which is found only in isolated patches of northern Kenya and Ethiopia, is officially endangered. The mountain zebra is also rare, with a ‘vulnerable’ conservation status, and is limited to parts of southern Africa.

2. If you’ve wondered whether zebras are white with black stripes or black with white stripes, it’s actually the latter – beneath their hair, zebras’ underlying colour is black. The opposite was previously thought to be true because of the animals’ white underbellies but embryo studies revealed that not to be the case.

 

3. The reason for zebras’ distinctive stripes is not known for certain. It is thought to be a form of camouflage – while it seems absurd that such a striking pattern could actually go unnoticed, the stripes may blend into the vertical lines of long grasses when seen at night, or by their main predator, the colour-blind lion. Another theory is that the stripes help to confuse predators attempting to pick off a single animal during a pursuit.

4. Zebras are highly social creatures. They live in family groups consisting of a stallion and a harem of mares, with their foals. Males lives alone or as part of bachelor groups until they are able to claim a female from its current family by force. Many groups can also team up as much bigger herds, most notably when around a quarter of a million zebras join the wildebeest for the Great Migration around the Serengeti and Masai Mara.

5. Zebras have several predators, including lions, hyenas, wild dogs, leopards and cheetahs. Zebras are fast on their feet and often outrun their attackers using a zigzag running pattern. And even when caught, a zebra can sometimes fight off a predator by kicking, biting and wrestling.

Where the wild things are

The past few weeks have been a whirlwind of wildlife activity in the Masai Mara as the great wildebeest migration has been in full flow. And one camp whose location makes the most of this annual spectacle is Sala’s Camp. Even outside migration season this is a sensational spot for wildlife, with elephants, buffalo, giraffes and diverse birdlife on display in a remote and private setting. But when the wildebeest herds arrive, Sala’s explodes with life.

Dramatic river crossings can be witnessed from Sala's Camp

Sala’s Camp is located in the heart of the African wilderness, at the fringes of the Masai Mara and overlooking the Serengeti just over the border in Tanzania. What makes Sala’s particularly special during the migration is the camp’s proximity to where the Sand and the Keekorok rivers meet. This delivers the thrillingly dramatic sight of countless thousands of wildebeest and zebra making their life-or-death bid to swim the river whilst also evading eager attackers.

The camp is passed by the migration both on its way north into the Serengeti and on its way back south. It is the return journey that the camp has reported seeing over recent days. The unimaginable abundance of wildebeest in the region at this time has, as you would expect, attracted more than a little attention from predators. The area’s resident lions have been out in force, providing some intimate big cat sightings for the lucky recent guests at Sala’s.

A tented bedroom at Sala's Camp

But we love Sala’s Camp for more than just its amazing animals. It’s also a pleasure to take guests there because of its great hospitality and comfort. Wild it may be, but there’s no shortage of creature comforts to provide the luxury and relaxation that are crucial ingredients of every Africa House safari.

If you like the sound of Sala’s Camp, we’d love to take you there. Whether it’s timed to coincide with the migration and its incomparable drama, or at another time of the year, a safari at Sala’s guarantees an action-packed slice of Africa.

Five great places to sample Kenyan history

With its reputation as the home of safari and its idyllic beaches, you’d be forgiven for overlooking another fascinating aspect to Kenya – its rich and variegated history. From intriguing prehistoric sites that turned up evidence about the origin of modern humans, to magnificent ancient military structures, to stunning architecture signalling its varied cultural influences, Kenya is a treasure trove of historical interest. Here are five great spots that showcase the country’s colourful past:

Olorgesailie
Located 70km from Nairobi, this pre-historic site offers a rare insight into early human life. Discovered and excavated in 1942, the area has revealed one of the world’s highest concentrations of stone age tools, including hand axes, and an early human fossil. An accompanying museum presents exhibits and explains the significance of the site’s findings.


Lamu Town Fort

Lamu Town
This ancient town is found of the main island in the Lamu archipelago off the east coast of Kenya. The town dates from at least as far back as the 14th century and hosts a rich collection of fascinating heritage. Lamu reveals an eclectic social history, which features Swahili, Arabic and Portuguese influences. With no vehicles on the island, enchanting squares and narrow streets, and charming architecture, Lamu Town takes you back in time and provides a living slice of African history.

Gedi Ruins
This is a magical lost Swahili city near Malindi which was mysteriously deserted in the 17th century. Gedi became hidden by a forest but was rediscovered in the 1920s. A visit to the city today reveals palaces, houses and tombs dating as far back as the 13th century, with the Great Mosque being a highlight.

Fort Jesus
This coastal fortress in Mombasa was built in the 1590s by the Portuguese. It is considered a superb example of Renaissance architecture with its geometric harmony and man-shaped layout when seen from above. Testament to the importance of Fort Jesus is the fact it has been assigned as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The unique Giraffe Manor

Giraffe Manor
For accommodation with a historical essence, Giraffe Manor in Nairobi is hard to beat. With a lovingly restored art deco interior and classic 1930s architecture, this small boutique hotel is highly evocative of Kenya’s colonial days. With the added twist of several resident Rothschild giraffes, which like to pay a visit to guests at breakfast, this charming manor combines a unique wildlife experience with a rich historical viewpoint.

Flamingo exodus

Lake Nakuru in Kenya, near the home of Africa House Safaris, is probably best known for its huge population of flamingos. But the lake has been looking rather different in recent months as the vast majority of these elegant birds have flown north in favour of Lake Bogoria, about 100km away.


The reason for this mass exodus is thought to be the dramatic recent rise in the water level at Lake Nakuru. This is attributable to a combination of increasing human population, drainage issues caused by land use changes, and climatic factors, including unusually heavy rain. The increase in water volume has reduced the lake’s salt concentration, which in turn has meant less of the algae on which the flamingos depend for food.

One upside of this development is that wildlife seekers visiting Nakuru are finding that a wider variety of birdlife is now far more visible at the lake. With the usual sea of pink absent, guests can now spot pelicans, storks, gulls and an abundance of migratory birds – as well as the reduced number of flamingos that have remained here. Hippos that wallow in the lake are also now easier to spot. Plus, the higher water levels have flooded much of the grassland in the vicinity, making it easier to sight mammals such as buffaloes, baboons and impala on land.

This switch of habitats for the flamingos is expected to be only a temporary phenomenon. When the water levels at Lake Nakuru subside and more typical environmental conditions resume, we look forward to welcoming back the million-plus flock of flamingos to their usual home.

Gorilla births celebrated

The annual naming ceremony for newly born gorillas in Rwanda took place on 16 June. The event, called Kwitz Izina, attracted an audience of thousands, with senior government officials, including the Rwandan Prime Minister, and leading conservationists present.

Over the last twelve months, nineteen baby gorillas have been born in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, one of the few places on Earth where the endangered species still lives. The new arrivals were given names that include Ijabo, meaning ‘dignity’ and Icyeza, which means ‘beauty’.


A baby gorilla with its mother
at Volcanoes National Park

The naming event is a celebration of the considerable achievements that have been made in protecting the few remaining wild mountain gorillas in Rwanda. The event also provides an opportunity to draw attention to the plight the animals face and to encourage a greater understanding of the species.

The staging of this ceremony is an indication of the importance attached to the protection of mountain gorillas in Rwanda. The huge tourist interest in these creatures has contributed strongly to the impetus for conservation. Fortunately, Rwanda’s tourism authorities have pursued a sensitive approach to allowing access to the gorillas’ habitat, issuing strictly limited daily permits.

This green approach to tourism has been a win-win for everyone involved – the gorillas are protected by determined conservation efforts, the Rwandan people benefit from community investment from a share of the permit proceeds, and guests on holiday get to savour the incredible experience of a close, wild encounter with gorillas.

Hopefully, the coming year will bring cause for a whole new list of names to be dreamt up by next June.

Five facts about the wildebeest migration

1. The great wildebeest migration is an annual clockwise movement of wildebeest around the Serengeti in Tanzania and the Masai Mara in Kenya. Each year, around 1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied by hundreds of thousands of zebra and gazelle, travel in unison on the journey, which can exceed a thousand miles, driven by the search for fresh grasses and drinking water brought by variations in rainfall around East Africa.

2. The wildebeest stop in the Serengeti for their calving season during February and March. Each year, around 400,000 wildebeest are born in a remarkably condensed time-frame. The calves are capable of standing and running with their mothers within minutes of entering the world.

The masses of wildebeest on the move

3. Wildebeest are one of the few types of antelope to have increased their number and range in East Africa during recent years. In fact, their population has grown six-fold from a quarter of a million in the 1960s to 1.5 million today – disease had diminished the number of wildebeest in the late nineteenth century but an inoculation programme had allowed the population to skyrocket in more recent years. This population increase revived the great migration to the form it currently takes, as competition for food and water intensified.

4. The migrating herd of wildebeest is understandably a huge attraction for predators. Their progress is watched closely by lions, cheetahs, leopards, hyenas and crocodiles – with vultures awaiting any leftovers of an attack. The considerable strength of wildebeest, combined with ‘swarm intelligence’, makes captures surprisingly difficult for attackers, and protects the young and weak. Even so, around 250,000 wildebeest are estimated to meet their end during each annual cycle.

5. The most formidable challenges for the animals during the migration come when they are forced to cross rivers, especially the Grumeti in Tanzania and the Mara River in Kenya. Crocodiles await their chance to strike, and the tired wildebeest wrestle against the current. As the wildebeest concentrate in bottlenecks at crossing points, these attempts to get across the rivers are a dramatic highlight for anyone visiting the region at the crucial time.

The perfect spot for migration spectacle

There are few greater wildlife spectacles on Earth than the great annual wildebeest migration. And with the colossal herd just starting to arrive in Kenya now, there are few better places to witness the event than at the perfectly positioned Sala’s Camp.

Preparing for dinner at Sala's Camp

Located on the very southern edge of the Masai Mara, Sala’s Camp has the privilege of being the very first camp in the game reserve to observe the arrival of the wildebeest from the Serengeti. The camp is just a short drive away from the river which the animals must cross as they arrive on Kenyan soil. This allows guests to get a sensational view of the high-drama struggle of thousands upon thousands of wildebeest making the crossing. Predators, which are numerous in this area, stalk the travelling herds, awaiting their opportunity to attack. As well as the numerous big cats found here, there are leopards, zebras and a plethora of other wildlife, making it a dream for wildlife-lovers.

Despite being set in the world famous Masai Mara reserve, Sala’s Camp enjoys a surprisingly remote location with the magical Sand River providing a beautiful feature. This makes for a true African wilderness experience, and a tranquil and serene stay – aside, of course, from those countless thousands of hooves which are passing through around now!

Sala's Camp at night

In addition to its remarkable location, Sala’s offers world-class hospitality. The hosts are warm and welcoming, and have a knack for making guests feel special with their great food, attentive service, and activities to enthral kids. And although this is simple tented accommodation, the camp is stylish, with a distinct feel of cosy African homeliness.

Sala’s Camp would be an enticing prospect at any time, but with the migration converging here, the camp also becomes a front row seat for one of the most breathtaking scenes in nature’s great theatre. The latest news on this year’s migration is that the wildebeest have been slow to make the passage across from the Serengeti into the Masai Mara but that the move is now underway, led by a herd of zebras, the wildebeest’s travelling companions – so guests at Sala’s Camp can expect an incredible show.