Three of our favourite Kenyan parks and reserves

Kenya is, with good reason, regarded as the home of the classic African safari. And the place to catch most of the game action is in the dozens of National Parks and Reserves which are dotted throughout the country. Although these regions are united in providing a habitat to the bewildering array of wildlife found in Kenya, they are also distinct and unique, all with their own special set of natural features. Here are three of the parks and reserves that are guaranteed to thrill our guests:

Elephants at Amboseli, with Mount
Kilimanjaro as a backdrop

Amboseli
This National Park is situated in Kenya’s Rift Valley Province, not far from the border with Tanzania. One of Amboseli’s most striking attributes is the sensational views it affords. Whenever you see that unmistakeably African scene of elephants on wide open plains studded with acacia trees, with Mount Kilimanjaro towering on the horizon, the image is most likely to be one captured from this park. In addition to magnificent landscapes, Amboseli also boasts plentiful wildlife. Numerous herds of elephants are among the most impressive of the park’s animals. Also to be spotted are lions, cheetahs, giraffes and an amazing four-hundred-plus species of birds.

Masai Mara
The best-known and most-visited of Kenya’s reserves, the Masai Mara offers an action-packed African safari. The Masai Mara is actually an extension of the similarly famous Serengeti ecosystem over the border in Tanzania. The reserve is packed with diverse wildlife, including representatives of each of the Big Five. In the latter half of each year, the reserve is also the setting for the world’s most spectacular migration as millions of wildebeest and hundreds of thousands of zebras flood into the reserve from the Serengeti. The Masai Mara also presents a magical opportunity to glimpse into the ancient lifestyle of the beautiful Maasai people. Despite the reserve’s huge popularity, it still offers relatively remote spots and stunning exclusive accommodation. That’s where Africa House comes in – our intimate knowledge of the the region ensures that we can show guests the very best of the Masai Mara.

David on the dusty Tsavo road

Tsavo
Divided into West Tsavo and East Tsavo, this double National Park, separated by a road and railway line, occupies a whopping 21,000 square kilometres altogether. This region offers a fascinating mix of wildlife, including rare black rhinos, bushbabies, hippos and hartebeest. Tsavo has some stirringly beautiful landscapes to enjoy, including distinctive and stark red plains and rustic scrubland filled with acacia. Some of our favourite luxury accommodation is found here, including the utterly charming Lions Bluff eco-lodge, raised on stilts to make the most of the breathtaking views.

Five things you might not know about zebras

1. There are three species of zebra living in the African wild: the plains (or Burchell’s) zebra, the Grévy's zebra and the mountain zebra. The plains zebra is the commonest species to be found. The Grévy's, which is found only in isolated patches of northern Kenya and Ethiopia, is officially endangered. The mountain zebra is also rare, with a ‘vulnerable’ conservation status, and is limited to parts of southern Africa.

2. If you’ve wondered whether zebras are white with black stripes or black with white stripes, it’s actually the latter – beneath their hair, zebras’ underlying colour is black. The opposite was previously thought to be true because of the animals’ white underbellies but embryo studies revealed that not to be the case.

 

3. The reason for zebras’ distinctive stripes is not known for certain. It is thought to be a form of camouflage – while it seems absurd that such a striking pattern could actually go unnoticed, the stripes may blend into the vertical lines of long grasses when seen at night, or by their main predator, the colour-blind lion. Another theory is that the stripes help to confuse predators attempting to pick off a single animal during a pursuit.

4. Zebras are highly social creatures. They live in family groups consisting of a stallion and a harem of mares, with their foals. Males lives alone or as part of bachelor groups until they are able to claim a female from its current family by force. Many groups can also team up as much bigger herds, most notably when around a quarter of a million zebras join the wildebeest for the Great Migration around the Serengeti and Masai Mara.

5. Zebras have several predators, including lions, hyenas, wild dogs, leopards and cheetahs. Zebras are fast on their feet and often outrun their attackers using a zigzag running pattern. And even when caught, a zebra can sometimes fight off a predator by kicking, biting and wrestling.

Where the wild things are

The past few weeks have been a whirlwind of wildlife activity in the Masai Mara as the great wildebeest migration has been in full flow. And one camp whose location makes the most of this annual spectacle is Sala’s Camp. Even outside migration season this is a sensational spot for wildlife, with elephants, buffalo, giraffes and diverse birdlife on display in a remote and private setting. But when the wildebeest herds arrive, Sala’s explodes with life.

Dramatic river crossings can be witnessed from Sala's Camp

Sala’s Camp is located in the heart of the African wilderness, at the fringes of the Masai Mara and overlooking the Serengeti just over the border in Tanzania. What makes Sala’s particularly special during the migration is the camp’s proximity to where the Sand and the Keekorok rivers meet. This delivers the thrillingly dramatic sight of countless thousands of wildebeest and zebra making their life-or-death bid to swim the river whilst also evading eager attackers.

The camp is passed by the migration both on its way north into the Serengeti and on its way back south. It is the return journey that the camp has reported seeing over recent days. The unimaginable abundance of wildebeest in the region at this time has, as you would expect, attracted more than a little attention from predators. The area’s resident lions have been out in force, providing some intimate big cat sightings for the lucky recent guests at Sala’s.

A tented bedroom at Sala's Camp

But we love Sala’s Camp for more than just its amazing animals. It’s also a pleasure to take guests there because of its great hospitality and comfort. Wild it may be, but there’s no shortage of creature comforts to provide the luxury and relaxation that are crucial ingredients of every Africa House safari.

If you like the sound of Sala’s Camp, we’d love to take you there. Whether it’s timed to coincide with the migration and its incomparable drama, or at another time of the year, a safari at Sala’s guarantees an action-packed slice of Africa.

Five great places to sample Kenyan history

With its reputation as the home of safari and its idyllic beaches, you’d be forgiven for overlooking another fascinating aspect to Kenya – its rich and variegated history. From intriguing prehistoric sites that turned up evidence about the origin of modern humans, to magnificent ancient military structures, to stunning architecture signalling its varied cultural influences, Kenya is a treasure trove of historical interest. Here are five great spots that showcase the country’s colourful past:

Olorgesailie
Located 70km from Nairobi, this pre-historic site offers a rare insight into early human life. Discovered and excavated in 1942, the area has revealed one of the world’s highest concentrations of stone age tools, including hand axes, and an early human fossil. An accompanying museum presents exhibits and explains the significance of the site’s findings.


Lamu Town Fort

Lamu Town
This ancient town is found of the main island in the Lamu archipelago off the east coast of Kenya. The town dates from at least as far back as the 14th century and hosts a rich collection of fascinating heritage. Lamu reveals an eclectic social history, which features Swahili, Arabic and Portuguese influences. With no vehicles on the island, enchanting squares and narrow streets, and charming architecture, Lamu Town takes you back in time and provides a living slice of African history.

Gedi Ruins
This is a magical lost Swahili city near Malindi which was mysteriously deserted in the 17th century. Gedi became hidden by a forest but was rediscovered in the 1920s. A visit to the city today reveals palaces, houses and tombs dating as far back as the 13th century, with the Great Mosque being a highlight.

Fort Jesus
This coastal fortress in Mombasa was built in the 1590s by the Portuguese. It is considered a superb example of Renaissance architecture with its geometric harmony and man-shaped layout when seen from above. Testament to the importance of Fort Jesus is the fact it has been assigned as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The unique Giraffe Manor

Giraffe Manor
For accommodation with a historical essence, Giraffe Manor in Nairobi is hard to beat. With a lovingly restored art deco interior and classic 1930s architecture, this small boutique hotel is highly evocative of Kenya’s colonial days. With the added twist of several resident Rothschild giraffes, which like to pay a visit to guests at breakfast, this charming manor combines a unique wildlife experience with a rich historical viewpoint.

Flamingo exodus

Lake Nakuru in Kenya, near the home of Africa House Safaris, is probably best known for its huge population of flamingos. But the lake has been looking rather different in recent months as the vast majority of these elegant birds have flown north in favour of Lake Bogoria, about 100km away.


The reason for this mass exodus is thought to be the dramatic recent rise in the water level at Lake Nakuru. This is attributable to a combination of increasing human population, drainage issues caused by land use changes, and climatic factors, including unusually heavy rain. The increase in water volume has reduced the lake’s salt concentration, which in turn has meant less of the algae on which the flamingos depend for food.

One upside of this development is that wildlife seekers visiting Nakuru are finding that a wider variety of birdlife is now far more visible at the lake. With the usual sea of pink absent, guests can now spot pelicans, storks, gulls and an abundance of migratory birds – as well as the reduced number of flamingos that have remained here. Hippos that wallow in the lake are also now easier to spot. Plus, the higher water levels have flooded much of the grassland in the vicinity, making it easier to sight mammals such as buffaloes, baboons and impala on land.

This switch of habitats for the flamingos is expected to be only a temporary phenomenon. When the water levels at Lake Nakuru subside and more typical environmental conditions resume, we look forward to welcoming back the million-plus flock of flamingos to their usual home.

Gorilla births celebrated

The annual naming ceremony for newly born gorillas in Rwanda took place on 16 June. The event, called Kwitz Izina, attracted an audience of thousands, with senior government officials, including the Rwandan Prime Minister, and leading conservationists present.

Over the last twelve months, nineteen baby gorillas have been born in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, one of the few places on Earth where the endangered species still lives. The new arrivals were given names that include Ijabo, meaning ‘dignity’ and Icyeza, which means ‘beauty’.


A baby gorilla with its mother
at Volcanoes National Park

The naming event is a celebration of the considerable achievements that have been made in protecting the few remaining wild mountain gorillas in Rwanda. The event also provides an opportunity to draw attention to the plight the animals face and to encourage a greater understanding of the species.

The staging of this ceremony is an indication of the importance attached to the protection of mountain gorillas in Rwanda. The huge tourist interest in these creatures has contributed strongly to the impetus for conservation. Fortunately, Rwanda’s tourism authorities have pursued a sensitive approach to allowing access to the gorillas’ habitat, issuing strictly limited daily permits.

This green approach to tourism has been a win-win for everyone involved – the gorillas are protected by determined conservation efforts, the Rwandan people benefit from community investment from a share of the permit proceeds, and guests on holiday get to savour the incredible experience of a close, wild encounter with gorillas.

Hopefully, the coming year will bring cause for a whole new list of names to be dreamt up by next June.

Five facts about the wildebeest migration

1. The great wildebeest migration is an annual clockwise movement of wildebeest around the Serengeti in Tanzania and the Masai Mara in Kenya. Each year, around 1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied by hundreds of thousands of zebra and gazelle, travel in unison on the journey, which can exceed a thousand miles, driven by the search for fresh grasses and drinking water brought by variations in rainfall around East Africa.

2. The wildebeest stop in the Serengeti for their calving season during February and March. Each year, around 400,000 wildebeest are born in a remarkably condensed time-frame. The calves are capable of standing and running with their mothers within minutes of entering the world.

The masses of wildebeest on the move

3. Wildebeest are one of the few types of antelope to have increased their number and range in East Africa during recent years. In fact, their population has grown six-fold from a quarter of a million in the 1960s to 1.5 million today – disease had diminished the number of wildebeest in the late nineteenth century but an inoculation programme had allowed the population to skyrocket in more recent years. This population increase revived the great migration to the form it currently takes, as competition for food and water intensified.

4. The migrating herd of wildebeest is understandably a huge attraction for predators. Their progress is watched closely by lions, cheetahs, leopards, hyenas and crocodiles – with vultures awaiting any leftovers of an attack. The considerable strength of wildebeest, combined with ‘swarm intelligence’, makes captures surprisingly difficult for attackers, and protects the young and weak. Even so, around 250,000 wildebeest are estimated to meet their end during each annual cycle.

5. The most formidable challenges for the animals during the migration come when they are forced to cross rivers, especially the Grumeti in Tanzania and the Mara River in Kenya. Crocodiles await their chance to strike, and the tired wildebeest wrestle against the current. As the wildebeest concentrate in bottlenecks at crossing points, these attempts to get across the rivers are a dramatic highlight for anyone visiting the region at the crucial time.

The perfect spot for migration spectacle

There are few greater wildlife spectacles on Earth than the great annual wildebeest migration. And with the colossal herd just starting to arrive in Kenya now, there are few better places to witness the event than at the perfectly positioned Sala’s Camp.

Preparing for dinner at Sala's Camp

Located on the very southern edge of the Masai Mara, Sala’s Camp has the privilege of being the very first camp in the game reserve to observe the arrival of the wildebeest from the Serengeti. The camp is just a short drive away from the river which the animals must cross as they arrive on Kenyan soil. This allows guests to get a sensational view of the high-drama struggle of thousands upon thousands of wildebeest making the crossing. Predators, which are numerous in this area, stalk the travelling herds, awaiting their opportunity to attack. As well as the numerous big cats found here, there are leopards, zebras and a plethora of other wildlife, making it a dream for wildlife-lovers.

Despite being set in the world famous Masai Mara reserve, Sala’s Camp enjoys a surprisingly remote location with the magical Sand River providing a beautiful feature. This makes for a true African wilderness experience, and a tranquil and serene stay – aside, of course, from those countless thousands of hooves which are passing through around now!

Sala's Camp at night

In addition to its remarkable location, Sala’s offers world-class hospitality. The hosts are warm and welcoming, and have a knack for making guests feel special with their great food, attentive service, and activities to enthral kids. And although this is simple tented accommodation, the camp is stylish, with a distinct feel of cosy African homeliness.

Sala’s Camp would be an enticing prospect at any time, but with the migration converging here, the camp also becomes a front row seat for one of the most breathtaking scenes in nature’s great theatre. The latest news on this year’s migration is that the wildebeest have been slow to make the passage across from the Serengeti into the Masai Mara but that the move is now underway, led by a herd of zebras, the wildebeest’s travelling companions – so guests at Sala’s Camp can expect an incredible show.

The future's green

Think of Kenya and you’ll probably picture the classic safari landscape of wide open plains and muted, burnt shades of the savannah. But the country possesses a whole other range of natural settings, among which is lush tropical forest – and it’s this particular environment that a current project by the Kenya Forest Service (KFS) is setting out to protect.

The KFS, which is responsible for ensuring the sustainable management of forestry resources across Kenya, has set in motion an ambitious tree-planting project to replenish the Mount Kenya and Aberdare Forests. Both of these forests were depleted by recent wildfires. Forested areas have been under threat more generally across East Africa by illegal logging for many years.

The planting project is part of a wider aim to increase the coverage of forest in Kenya from the current level of less than four percent to ten percent. Protecting and enhancing Kenya’s forests is an important for the safeguarding these ecosystems’ rich biodiversity and also because of the vital contribution forest resources make to people’s livelihoods and the Kenyan economy.

As well as engaging in planting tree seedlings itself, the KFS has set aside three million tree seedlings for distribution to various community groups, including schools and hospitals, to carry out their own planting projects.

Seven fascinating facts about the majestic Maasai

1. The Maasai, who live across Kenya and northern Tanzania, are Probably Africa’s best-known tribe, and are the embodiment of a quintessentially traditional way of life in East Africa. They have become a symbol of African culture because of their strong identity and the preservation of their unique lifestyle but are by no means one of the biggest tribes in the region. In fact, the Kikuyu and Luhya tribes are among the most populous of the 40–70 tribes living in Kenya, this total count varying according to how the groups are classified.

2. Cattle have always been at the centre of the Maasai way of life. Cattle-herding remains the primary occupation for many Maasai and the tribe shares a religious belief that all cattle were given to the Maasai by their god. Some Maasai people’s diets consist entirely of meat, blood and milk provided by their cattle.

The Maasai in their bright and intricate dress

3. The Maasai are a multilingual society. As well as speaking their own language, called Maa, the tribe speak English and Swahili, the official languages of Kenya and Tanzania. The rich tribal diversity and assortment of historical influences in East Africa have endowed the countries with a plethora of languages and dialects.

4. Their brightly coloured clothing is one of the most striking and distinguishing features of the Maasai. The loosely wrapped robes worn by both men and women are called shuka and are usually a vivid red, a colour the tribe associates with power – although other colours are worn too, with orange, blue and black being popular. The Maasai’s look is usually completed with beautiful and intricate jewellery, which includes multi-coloured beaded necklaces and wood bracelets.

5. The ‘jumping dance’ for which the Maasai are famous the world over is called adamu. The men of the community form a line or circle and take turns to jump in the centre, the height of the leaps denoting their strength as tribal warriors. The music of the Maasai is traditionally performed with the human voice alone, the harmonic chanting providing the rhythm while one singer performs the melody. The dance and music of the Maasai are one of the most memorable and life-affirming things to experience when visiting East Africa.

6. The Maasai continue to live a semi-nomadic life, despite pressures to settle in one spot. They travel with their beloved cattle, and other livestock such as goats and sheep, moving the animals seasonally to supply them with fresh pastures. When they’re not on the move, the Maasai live in inkajijik, houses built from earth, sticks, grass, and the dung and urine of cows.

7. The Maasai are renowned for the warm welcome they extend to guests and love to talk and to share ideas. Arranging a cultural encounter with the Maasai tribe as part of a safari allows you an unforgettable insight into the lives of these vibrant and inspiring people.

Poaching upsurge causes concern

An alarming increase in rhino and elephant poaching across Africa recently has sparked renewed concerns about the future of these fragile species. A sharp rise has been recorded in the number of animals that have been killed, despite both elephants and rhinos being protected and their hunting being strictly outlawed.

The Kenya Wildlife Service reported that 278 elephants were killed in Kenya alone last year, the highest figure for 11 years. The international trade in ivory was banned in 1990 but an illegal market has flourished over the last year years.

Also of grave concern is the sharp rise in the poaching of both black and white rhinos. These species, which numbered tens of thousands across Africa in the 1970s, were hunted almost to exinction, reaching lows of only a few hundred individuals. Thanks to committed conservation work, the populations began to grow and stabilise.

However, this trend is threatened by the recent upsurge in illegal poaching, which has been attributed to a growing black market in rhino horn. The demand comes largely from some traditional Chinese medicine systems, which assert, without any scientific basis, that the horn possesses therapeutic properties. The high demand has led to the value of rhino horn outsripping that of gold by weight.

To combat this rising trend in poaching, a crisis meeting of politicians, wildlife groups and NGOs met in Nairobi last month to formulate a response. The parties present pledged to tackle poaching through increasing and integrating surveillance, empowering national wildlife bodies and taking steps to persuade governments of the main consumer markets for poached products to take firm action against the illegal trade.

Sun, sand and spice in historical Zanzibar

A boat on the beautiful Zanzibar beach

Think of East Africa and it’s likely your imagination will summon up dramatic expanses of savannah and famous safari game like lions, elephants and wildebeest. But while this is the aspect of the region guests usually come to see, there’s a wholly different side to East Africa too. Perhaps the best way to experience this contrast is to journey less than 30 miles off the Tanzanian mainland to Zanzibar Island.
This beautiful spot in the Indian Ocean is the ideal complement to an action-packed safari adventure. With long, white sandy beaches, coconut palms, rainbow-coloured coral reefs and warm, turqouise water, it has all the hallmarks of a tropical island paradise.

An ornate Zanzibari doorway

But while Zanzibar is an idyllic retreat for chilling beside the ocean, what makes it so special is that it boasts such diverse treats besides that. The island’s eventful history has endowed it with a rich and kaleidoscopic heritage. Successive invasions, empires and influences make today’s Zanzibar a fascinating mix of arhitecture, culture and customs. This is most apparent in Stone Town, the island’s historic centre and a UN World Heritage Site. Here, the Arabic influence of Zanzibar is evident in beautiful mosques, palaces and bazaars. Ambling through the town’s narrow, winding alleyways and past its whitewashed buildings is the perfect way to embrace the romanticism and mystery of this unique place.

Another facet to Zanzibar is its long association with exotic spices. From the early nineteenth century it was realised that the island, with its regular rainfall, warm climate and rich soil, offered the perfect conditions for growing a range of spice plants. Zanzibar thus became a globally important supplier of spices that include cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, turmeric and saffron. Spice plantations still operate today, albeit on a smaller scale, and regular tours allow you to visit them to see the process by which these fragrant, exotic crops are cultivated.

The Old Fort in Stone Town

So despite being a small island of less than a million people, it’s unsurprising that Zanzibar, with such tempting and diverse features, has become famous the world over as a luxury holiday destination. If you would like to experience Zanzibar for yourself, we’d love to take you there.

Feline feature

If you want a taster of the African savannah’s unique allure, then Disney’s wildlife movie, African Cats, which has just been released in UK cinemas, is a thoroughly recommended watch. This family film is a dramatisation of real wildlife footage filmed in Kenya’s Masai Mara. The story follows the lives of lion and cheetah families, capturing the ups and downs of their lives and revealing the relationships that bind these groups of cats. We found it a moving and beautiful insight into the personal lives of these magnificent creatures.

As well as offering a compelling story that enables people, and especially children, to relate to the animals, the movie is a striking display of the beauty of African nature. The East African savannah landscape is powerfully shot, and some amazing wildlife moments have been caught for audiences to enjoy.

This movie might serve as a nostalgic reminder of what makes Africa so special if you’ve been before, and if you have yet to visit the region, then watching African Cats might just tempt you to come and experience the wonders of an East African safari for yourself.

The Mara goes live

It seems the world’s cameras just can’t get enough of the Masai Mara! As if the park hasn’t hogged the limelight enough through films like the aforementioned African Cats and countless other documentaries, the Masai Mara one of the locations of a new live BBC wildlife show being broadcast this month.

BBC Planet Earth Live builds on the huge, groundbreaking success of the Planet Earth series by this time presenting the wildlife action in real time. Presented by Richard Hammond and Julia Bradbury, the crew will be tracking the movements of lions and elephants over the coming couple of weeks.

Broadcast times for the episode, which feature wildlife from Sri Lanka and the USA in addition to the Kenya’s wild animals, can be found by clicking here.

Kenya Airways announce expansion

Kenya Airways announced this month that it plans a major expansion to its service over the next five years. The airline, Kenya’s largest, says that it will invest $3.6 billion over the period, predominantly on building aircraft and expanding its route network.

In particular, Kenya Airways is hoping to capitalise on the burgeoning tourist markets of Asia. It plans to introduce flight services to China and India. Routes are also expected to be increased within the African continent and to parts of Europe.

One potential hurdle the airline’s plans could face is the limited capacity of its base, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. There are, however, plans in motion to expand the airport by creating a new terminal. During a recent speech, President Kibaki of Kenya urged airport authorities to press ahead urgently with the project, highlighting the importance of keeping pace with the anticipated increase in demand for travel to Kenya.

Spotlight on Kenya for travel awards

Nairobi has been announced as the host city for a prestigious travel industry awards ceremony due to take place later this year. The Africa and Indian Ocean section of the World Travel Awards, dubbed the ‘Oscars of the travel industry’, will be held in the Kenyan capital for the first time on 26 September.

The World Travel Awards chose to stage the event in Nairobi because of its growing reputation as a centre for business and leisure, and organisers complimented the city on its being ‘vibrant and progressive’. The event will represent a great opportunity for Kenya to show off its assets as a world-class tourist destination.

Some of the places and accommodation settings that Africa House guests might recognise are in the running for awards at the ceremony. Among them, Ol Donyo, Governors’ Camp and Little Governors’ Camp have each been nominated in the category for Kenya’s Leading Safari Lodge.

Sensational Sirikoi

East African tourism is notable for its hidden gems, and Sirikoi lodge in Kenya provides the perfect example. Set in a secluded acacia grove at the foot of Mount Kenya, this luxury tented accommodation has some beautiful and captivating features.

Tent at Sirikoi

The use of natural, rustic materials in the camp’s construction sets the tone for a laid-back wilderness experience – with stone, canvas, thatch, rich woods and warm textiles contributing to the design aesthetic. But here, rustic certainly doesn’t mean roughing it. There’s luxury and comfort aplenty. The tented bedrooms are spacious yet cosy and each has an elegant bathroom with a claw-footed Victorian bath. The sense of restful comfort is enhanced further still by the impeccable welcome of camp’s hosts and owners, Sue and Willie Roberts.

The food is lovingly prepared, and more than this, much of it is produced around the camp. Sirikoi’s own organic garden provides fresh, healthy fruit and vegetables. Beef is reared in the local vicinity. And the camp’s drinking water comes from its own freshwater spring. This local sourcing of food and drink is an important element in Sirikoi’s holistic and sustainable approach generally.

A comfortable bedroom at Sirikoi

And Sirikoi’s location is sensational. Set in private land and surrounded by the Lewa Conservancy, the region offers a real taste of the wild, romantic Africa of the kind that occupies the imagination. Open savannah stretches out before you and the imposing form of Mount Kenya, visible from camp, makes a spectacular backdrop.

The number one thing on the minds of most visitors to Africa, however, is the wildlife. And this is yet another respect in which Sirikoi comes up trumps. Lewa is a remarkably rich ecosystem, harbouring a great number of the characters you might hope to see, including the lion, leopard, cheetah, elephant and buffalo. It is also an important habitat for both the black and white rhino and contains the largest concentration of the endangered Grevy’s zebra in the world.

Wildlife around Sirikoi

There are plenty of activities available to guests at Sirikoi to help you appreciate the paradise surrounding the camp. Thanks to the private setting, it is possible to take in the wildlife sights on walking trips – a privilege that affords a uniquely close connection to the bush. There are also opportunities for helicopter or bi-plane flights and the breathtaking viewpoints they bring, horse-riding, camel-riding, fly-fishing trips, and cultural encounters with local tribespeople.

It’s easy to see why Sirikoi is loved by those who know about it, and why guests often return to its peace and seclusion. If you would like to spend time here during a safari of your own, we’d love to take you there.

Five of Africa’s strangest creatures

Pangolin
With its covering of spiky scales, this nocturnal animal looks like an oversized pine cone, especially when it curls into its defensive ball position. If the armour-plating isn’t enough to deter predators, such as leopards and hyenas, it also secretes a foul-smelling odour. The pangolin is toothless, grinding its food, which includes ants and termites, in its stomach with the help of small stones.

Aardvark
This well-known but rarely spotted mammal is an odd-looking creature, with a long snout, oversized ears and arched back. The aardvark’s unusual foraging behaviour adds to its comical character. It swings its nose around over the ground in search of the scent of food, and when it finds a concentration of ants or termites, it springs suddenly into frantic action, digging into the ground at a furious rate in a bid to eat the insects before they disperse.

The familiar yet bizarre aardvark

Bush baby
Also known as the lesser gelago, this tiny primate has big, bright round eyes and big ears, giving it a unique and peculiar look. Its loud, shrill cry resembles that of a human child and accounts for its name. To complete its odd reputation, the bush baby is able to leap great distances between trees, making it appear to fly overhead.

Shoebill
Not the prettiest of Africa’s birds, this stork-like wader has a surreally large, show-shaped beak. The shoebill is a hefty creature, its wingspan stretching over two metres across. Living in swamps in East Africa, the bird’s diet includes fish, frogs and even baby crocodiles.


The shoebill, with its oversized beak and beady eyes

Golden-rumped elephant shrew
Bizarrely, this little woodland creature’s connection to the elephant extends beyond just its trunk-like snout – it’s actually more closely related to the elephant than the shrew. This animal’s strange appearance is heightened by a golden-coloured bottom. When the elephant shrew is under threat, it scurries away at an impressive speed, but if predators are too close, it puts on a brave show of defiance, facing its attacker and kicking up leaf litter aggressively.

Growth last year for Kenyan tourism

Figures just released by the Kenyan tourism indicate that 2011 saw the number of tourists coming to Kenya by air rise to 1.26 million, an increase of 15.4% on the 2010 figure. This result marks a third consecutive year of increases in visitors to the country.

The ministry attributes the success of the tourist sector to an extensive marketing campaign and also to the opening of new upmarket lodges, camps and beach resorts during the year.

The highest number of visitors arrived from the UK, a longstanding leading source of holiday-makers to Kenya. It was followed by the US, Italy, Germany and India. Kenya is hoping to attract increasing numbers of visitors from markets such as the Czech Republic, Russia and China over coming years to boost growth further.

The year’s tourism success comes despite a number of challenges in 2011, including social tension in neighbouring Somalia, economic problems in the Eurozone and fears about the possibility of another global recession. Kenya’s success in achieving healthy visitor numbers is seen as a testament to the quality of its tourist assets and its commitment to tourism development.

Five fascinating flamingo facts

1. The flamingos that are a characteristic presence along the Great Rift Valley in East Africa are actually lesser flamingos. They are found around the lakes throughout Ethiopia, Kenya and Tanzania. These are marked out from five other species of flamingo by their relatively small size and black colouring on their bills.

2. It is not known whether the populations of lesser flamingos in East Africa are genetically related to a smaller isolated population living in India. But a new study being conducted at the UK’s University of Leicester is aiming to discover just that, through genetic research on feathers from birds at each location. Revealing whether or not these groups of flamingos are distinct or whether they interact might clear up long-standing mystery about their migratory patterns.

3. Flamingos feed on blue-green algae, and to a lesser extent, shrimp. Surprisingly, it is the algae that give the lesser flamingo its characteristic soft pink colouring, as they are virtually all this species eats. The algae contain a photosynthetic pigment which is expressed in the birds’ plumage. The particular algae favoured by flamingos, mainly Spirulina, only grow in alkaline water, which explains the concentrations of the birds around the soda lakes of the Great Rift Valley.

4. It is thought by many that the flamingo may have inspired the ancient myth of the phoenix, the immortal firebird which burns periodically then is reborn from the ashes. The flamingo, as well as having a majestic stature and otherworldly bright colouring, has another feature which is phoenix-like – flamingos build a raised mound nest above salt flats, which are too hot for the eggs, creating a convection effect that resembles the flames you might expect during a phoenix re-birth.

5. East Africa is home to over 2 million lesser flamingos, the largest concentration in the world. They create a vast sea of pink as they gather at their regular breeding ground at Lake Natron, in Tanzania, close to the Kenya border. They also appear in huge flocks in Kenya at Lake Nakuru (their main feeding ground) and Lake Bogoria.

Click here to see a stunning film of flamingos at Lake Bogoria:

The high life

In our last newsletter we reported on our recent action-packed trip to Ndutu in Tanzania. While our account ended there, our exploration of the East African wilderness didn’t. The next stage of our start-of-year holiday took us over the border into Kenya, where the next few days took on a distinctively hilly character.

A house with history

The first hill to climb was that leading to the alluring Grogan’s Castle. This unusual and imposing white-walled mansion is a curious blend of European and Arabic architecture, with more than a hint of bold art deco stylings which reflect its 1930s construction. Wrought-iron entrance gates, wide curving staircases and huge rooms create a sense of grandeur and luxury.

An en-suite bedroom at Grogan's Castle

The elevation of Grogan’s Castle makes for a spectacular stay. On arrival we were struck by the amazing views of the surrounding landscape. Stood atop an isolated hill, the house has breathtaking 360-degrees views, with the towering form of Mount Kilimanjaro which stands nearby dominating the skyline to the north-west. We also gazed out over Lake Jipe and the Pare Mountains.

The mansion comes complete with irresistible historical associations. Ewart Grogan, the man who built the house as his residence over 70 years ago, certainly had an interesting story. He was an influential settler from England with a mixed reputation that included charm, wit and vision, but also arrogance and a rebellious streak. Grogan is best known for being the first person to make the perilous trans-African journey from Cape Town to Cairo, a challenge he undertook to impress the father of Gertrude, the woman he loved. The feat paid off as he later married her. A children’s hospital he built in her name still stands in Nairobi today.

The romance of this story certainly adds to the mystique of the accommodation. And with spacious bedrooms (to which the word ‘double’ hardly does justice), sensitive recent renovations, friendly staff and wonderful food, our time at Grogan’s Castle was one to remember for all the right reasons.

The view with a lodge

Our next stop was out east at Lumo Conservancy and to another elevated location at the renowned Lion’s Bluff eco-lodge. We were taken aback by vast, sweeping vistas over the classic African savannah, sparsely studded with acacia trees and spreading out to mountains on the horizon. The lodge enables you to take in these sights in style, with each of its raised tents complete with its own veranda. It’s unsurprising that Lion’s Bluff is wittily dubbed ‘the view with a lodge’.

A Lion's Bluff cottage

But while the surroundings are breathtaking, the lodge is pretty impressive too, with rustic charm in abundance. With four-poster beds and balcony balustrades crafted from timber in its naturally bumpy, irregular form, and pointed coconut-thatched roofs, it’s heaven for lovers of natural chic living. Excellent cuisine and welcoming, attentive service completed the comfort of our stay.

The thing that you really come to Lumo to enjoy, however, is the incredible game-viewing. Lumo Conservancy, a part of the Tsavo National Park, is a hub of animal activity, and both day and night game drives are available here to make the most of this opportunity. Wildlife highlights during our stay included numerous elephant sightings, following a male lion for hours, a night-time sighting of a striped hyena and wonderful bird sightings (photos of which can be seen below).

This short tour of southern Kenya has reconnected us with the beauty we’re so keen to share with our guests. It serves as a reminder of how amazing wildlife, stunning scenery and gorgeous accommodation combine to make this part of the world so uniquely magical.

Here are a few of our wildlife snaps from Lumo Conservancy:

Lilac-breasted roller

European roller

Lesser kudu

Yellow-necked spur fowl

Bateleur eagle

Yellow-necked spur fowl

Cats, calves and coffee boys

When we’re not arranging safaris for our guests, we love to take the opportunity to explore the wonders of East Africa for ourselves. We did just that last month as friends from the UK joined us on safari in Ndutu, located in the southern part of Tanzania’s renowned Serengeti National Park. Around January, this corner of the Serengeti becomes an epicentre of wildlife activity, with game gathering and alternating between long and short grass plains – so we were hopeful about the prospect of witnessing some dramatic action. Fortunately, we were treated to precisely that, as a variety of Africa’s most mesmerising natural spectacles played out before us.

The 'Coffee Boys' after taking
down a wildebeest

The region provided a generous display of big cat activity. Huge prides of lions paraded the plains, combining with the landscape to create a very iconic African scene. And we were lucky to see often-elusive cheetahs going about their business. We came upon the ‘coffee boys’ known in this region – three cheetah brothers who have been named Mocha, Latte and Espresso. We watched the group for a whole morning as they killed a wildebeest then two tore into the carcass while the third kept watch for intruders who might be curious about their catch.

Ndutu is also the perfect place to see wildebeest at the start of the year. As part of their perpetual migration around the Serengeti-Masai Mara ecosystem, many of the animals are concentrated here in January. And what makes this stage of the migration special is the onset of calving season – with 80% of wildebeest being born from January to mid-March. We were lucky to see a newly born wildebeest calf. Witnessing the tender moment between mother and child revealed a rare personal aspect to a species which usually summons up images of vast herds traversing the savannah in unison – a spectacular but contrasting sight which can be seen later in the season.

A baby wildebeest with its mother

The Serengeti also hosts a staggering abundance and variety of bird life, evidence of which is especially apparent during this season. A definite ornithological highlight for us was seeing a huge group of white storks gathered on the plains. These unmistakable birds, with their long beaks and hulking forms, had flown in from Europe. They spend winter in Africa before returning north later where they take a break from delivering babies to human mums and settle to raise their own young!

On top of our amazing wildlife experiences in Ndutu, the safari was enhanced further by the quality of our accommodation at Lake Masek Tented Camp. Understated rustic simplicity provided the ideal complement to the sublime wilderness surrounding the camp. Raised on wooden platforms, each tent comes with a veranda, taking full opportunity of the momentous views. Comfortable beds in generous bedroom spaces, plentiful hot water and outdoor showers provided all the comfort we needed. And that all-important element of great service was also present here – our friendly, attentive hosts ensured that we were well looked after, and even went as far as offering to re-stitch a damaged beanbag we use as a camera support in our vehicle. Extra care like that is something which you don’t expect.

White storks arriving from Europe

Witnessing the theatre of the Serengeti at an active moment while also experiencing fine African hospitality, our holiday amounted to being in the right place at the right time. For our companions and us, this trip was a great example of what safari is all about – fun, drama and luxury.

One conservancy's fight to save the rhino

The story of Africa's black and white rhinoceroses is a sobering reminder of how devastating the practices of our own species can be for some of our fellow creatures. Over recent decades rhinos have been ruthlessly and illegally killed for their horns, which are believed by some traditional medicine systems to have therapeutic properties, despite the total absence of scientific evidence for this claim. The global black rhino population, for example, has fallen alarmingly from around 70000 in the late 1960s to 5000 today, a level which makes the species critically endangered.

One programme that is striving to help the black rhino and the southern white rhino is that which is being run at Lewa Downs Conservancy. Situated in northern Kenya, an important region for these species, Lewa is currently home to 65 black and 46 southern white rhinos. The conservation team here are committed to encouraging breeding amongst the population, monitoring the animals’ movements and behaviour, and to provide security from poachers.

Lewa’s conservation initiative has resulted in steady increases of the population under its care, with black rhino levels averaging growth of 10% per year since 2000. There is still a long way to go to increase groups to stable, self-sustaining levels. And the work of conservationists at Lewa and across Kenya and Africa more generally has been undermined by a concerning resurgence of poaching incidents in recent years. Nevertheless, the nine black rhino births which took place at the conservancy last year have been cause for celebration and optimism and are a testament to the concerted efforts its team continues to make in the face of environmental challenges and poaching.

White rhinos grazing

One of the ways in which Lewa Downs funds its conservation work is through fees from tourism. The area is a longstanding favourite for us at Africa House, appearing, for example, in the itinerary for our forthcoming Spring Break Safari. Our guests consistently enjoy the beautiful accommodation and amazing wildlife encounters on offer here. This combination of high-quality safaris with support for conservation for animals such as the iconic rhino truly embodies responsible tourism. Lewa Downs proves that tourism can be good for guests and good for wildlife, making it an organisation with which we are proud to be associated.

7 top tips for taking photos on safari

1) You don’t need the latest and greatest camera to take brilliant pictures. Nor do you need to huge amounts of equipment. While a quality digital SLR camera and lenses can help you get professional-looking shots, a decent compact camera is a perfectly suitable for a less experienced photographer. Often the best moments out on safari are captured by keen-eyed amateur on a modest camera who have pointed and shot the action at just the right moment.

2) If you do have an SLR camera, the most important extra lens to bring is a long lens. This will allow you to zoom in on distant wildlife with clarity. Carrying a tripod is likely to be an unnecessary burden – carefully resting your lens on a solid surface such as the side of a safari vehicle is usually adequate to prevent excessive wobble.

Karen lines up a holiday snap.

3) Remember to take enough spare batteries or recharging facilities and extra digital storage, or film if you’re using this medium. Don’t underestimate how many photos you might want to take. The low price of compact flash cards makes it well worth investing in the extra capacity should you need it.

4) Prepare for the conditions of the African bush. The dusty air can present problems for your equipment, especially in the drier seasons, so it can pay to take a soft cloth wrap with which to cover everything, and a small paintbrush or specialist blower to clean off dust particles when changing lenses out on safari. Heavy rain can be another issue so waterproof camera carrying bags are a sensible precaution.

Professional photographer and Africa House guide Bob Demchuk
 shows his work to Pokot tribesmen.

5) Get familiar with your camera’s functions before you get to Africa, especially if it’s new or you’re out of practice. Out on safari, you’ll want to concentrate on the action and sights around you rather than struggling to figure out what all the buttons on your SLR do.

6) If there’s one technical aspect of photography worth mastering for wildlife photography, it’s controlling the depth of field through your aperture setting. A larger aperture (lower f-number) keeps the subject in sharp focus while blurring the background, ideal for wildlife shots. For landscape photos it’s usually better to keep everything in focus by using a smaller aperture (higher f-number). The right choice here can transform an ordinary shot into a professional-looking image.

7) Experiment and use your imagination when taking shots. As well as taking the more predictable, conventional photos, use unusual angles and think about overall composition, not just the main subject in view. Try juxtaposing foreground and background objects in novel ways. You'll come home with photo album which is unique and personal to you.

Go low

If the end of the Christmas holiday has left you looking forward to spring and summer for your next chance to get away, you might want to consider planning a trip to East Africa. The April-June period is often overlooked as a time to visit the region because of the wet weather it brings. But those in the know realise that, in many ways, that the low season has several compelling advantages. It’s certainly one of our favourite times to explore both our favourite haunts and unknown reaches of East Africa.

The fact is that the rain which deters most isn’t as forbidding as some would expect. It doesn’t pour continually and is nothing like monsoon rainfall in intensity. Undeniably, it’s wetter during these months, although there’s no guarantee of enjoying drier weather outside the wet season, as last year’s unpredictable seasonal timings attested.

And there are some persuasive upsides. Firstly, the low season means lower prices. Great discounts are available at many hotels and lodges and even on some flights. Even more alluringly for travellers who like their space, it means lower tourist densities. So it’s easier to secure bookings at the best lodges and camps – which may be a telling factor as our accommodation contacts are reporting an especially rapid uptake of places for the high season later this year. And even the most popular game parks and conservancies can be relatively quiet. There’s also less competition for frequently oversubscribed activities such as gorilla trekking.

Baby elephants - one of the attractions
of our imminent Spring Break Safari

Coming in the off-peak months definitely doesn’t mean compromising on the experience. There will still be amazing game viewing, and the plethora of other cultural and adventure pursuits which complete a safari holiday. In fact, with fewer other tourists about, the spring can be the best time to soak up the atmosphere of Africa in serenity and to really appreciate its wilderness with minimal distraction.

And talking of the spring, we’d like to remind you that there is just time to book a place on our Special Spring Break Safari from March 3-10. We’ve compiled an extraordinary selection of wildlife watching, cultural encounters and sublime luxury at some of Kenya’s finest camps and hotels. So if you’re still looking for your dream holiday this spring, grab one of our limited places while you still can. Click here for full details.

Easy luxury at private lodge

One of the perks of designing safari adventures is the opportunity to take time out ourselves to try out the lodges we consider for our guests’ itineraries. Ol Donyo Lodge in Kenya is a long-standing favourite with Africa House, so it was with optimistic anticipation that we returned there for a short stay last month.

A comfortable bedroom tent at Ol Donyo

And we weren’t disappointed. One of our most striking impressions of this popular lodge on this latest visit was the pure, gratifying comfort of the accommodation. Big, comfy beds, feather pillows, and spacious bathrooms make it hard not to feel relaxed. We enjoyed plentiful hot water supplied by a solar unit and we loved the choice of an indoor or outdoor shower. The private dip pools which most of the cottages have are a particularly indulgent touch. And the striking architecture and attractive design throughout the Ol Donyo property create a beautiful aesthetic experience.

The trip was also a reminder of how special Ol Donyo’s surroundings are. This south-western corner of Kenya is blessed with extraordinary views. The area’s curiously rounded hills roll out into a staggering expanse of savannah while Mount Kilimanjaro lurks beyond. Recent rain brought a green richness to the scene while we were here. These open landscapes and glorious sights make the location apt for the horseriding safaris also available to guests here.

Horse riding at Ol Donyo

With its off-the-track location, Ol Donyo is not at the hub of Kenya’s game-viewing scene (although we did spot cheetah and lion whilst there). But with the Masai Mara nearby, serious safari action is within easy reach. So the lodge makes the ideal retreat for relaxing at the start or end of a more wildlife-focused itinerary. And with its serene, remote location and beautiful, intimate features, we think it is perfect for honeymooners. With so much going for it, Ol Donyo will certainly remain a firm fixture in Africa House’s line-up of top wilderness properties.