A house with history
The first hill to climb was that leading to the alluring Grogan’s Castle. This unusual and imposing white-walled mansion is a curious blend of European and Arabic architecture, with more than a hint of bold art deco stylings which reflect its 1930s construction. Wrought-iron entrance gates, wide curving staircases and huge rooms create a sense of grandeur and luxury.
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| An en-suite bedroom at Grogan's Castle |
The elevation of Grogan’s Castle makes for a spectacular stay. On arrival we were struck by the amazing views of the surrounding landscape. Stood atop an isolated hill, the house has breathtaking 360-degrees views, with the towering form of Mount Kilimanjaro which stands nearby dominating the skyline to the north-west. We also gazed out over Lake Jipe and the Pare Mountains.
The mansion comes complete with irresistible historical associations. Ewart Grogan, the man who built the house as his residence over 70 years ago, certainly had an interesting story. He was an influential settler from England with a mixed reputation that included charm, wit and vision, but also arrogance and a rebellious streak. Grogan is best known for being the first person to make the perilous trans-African journey from Cape Town to Cairo, a challenge he undertook to impress the father of Gertrude, the woman he loved. The feat paid off as he later married her. A children’s hospital he built in her name still stands in Nairobi today.
The romance of this story certainly adds to the mystique of the accommodation. And with spacious bedrooms (to which the word ‘double’ hardly does justice), sensitive recent renovations, friendly staff and wonderful food, our time at Grogan’s Castle was one to remember for all the right reasons.
The view with a lodge
Our next stop was out east at Lumo Conservancy and to another elevated location at the renowned Lion’s Bluff eco-lodge. We were taken aback by vast, sweeping vistas over the classic African savannah, sparsely studded with acacia trees and spreading out to mountains on the horizon. The lodge enables you to take in these sights in style, with each of its raised tents complete with its own veranda. It’s unsurprising that Lion’s Bluff is wittily dubbed ‘the view with a lodge’.
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| A Lion's Bluff cottage |
But while the surroundings are breathtaking, the lodge is pretty impressive too, with rustic charm in abundance. With four-poster beds and balcony balustrades crafted from timber in its naturally bumpy, irregular form, and pointed coconut-thatched roofs, it’s heaven for lovers of natural chic living. Excellent cuisine and welcoming, attentive service completed the comfort of our stay.
The thing that you really come to Lumo to enjoy, however, is the incredible game-viewing. Lumo Conservancy, a part of the Tsavo National Park, is a hub of animal activity, and both day and night game drives are available here to make the most of this opportunity. Wildlife highlights during our stay included numerous elephant sightings, following a male lion for hours, a night-time sighting of a striped hyena and wonderful bird sightings (photos of which can be seen below).
This short tour of southern Kenya has reconnected us with the beauty we’re so keen to share with our guests. It serves as a reminder of how amazing wildlife, stunning scenery and gorgeous accommodation combine to make this part of the world so uniquely magical.
Here are a few of our wildlife snaps from Lumo Conservancy:
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| Lilac-breasted roller |
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| European roller |
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| Lesser kudu |
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| Yellow-necked spur fowl |
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| Bateleur eagle |
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| Yellow-necked spur fowl |
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