Nature meets nostalgia at Sand River

When we heard last year that a new tented camp was opening in the Masai Mara, we were curious as to what it would be like. When we found out it was a luxury 1920s-inspired camp on the stunning Sand River built by boutique accommodation experts The Elewana Collection, we had to go and see it for ourselves.

We made our inaugural outing to this new camp, simply named Sand River Masai Mara after its position at this stunning spot in Kenya’s great National Park, at the very end of last year. What we discovered was a classic permanent camp comprising a string of beautifully apppointed tents dotted along the bank of the Sand River.

A bathroom at Sand River

Tents they may be, but roughing it this certainly is not. Sand River has been designed and decorated to evoke the Golden Age of 1920s and 30s safaris, and the brief is executed to stunning effect. You’re treated to roomy interiors with big four-poster beds, chandeliers, period furnishings, rich wooden floors and opulent fabrics. The bathrooms are fitted with grand roll top baths and gorgeous period-style washstands. This is truly a taste of the classic early days of safari, a sublime immersion in the romantic elegance of those heady days of exploration evoked in Hemingway or Out of Africa. 

A panoramic view of our family tent

The accommodation experience is completed by a standard of service and amenities which is nothing short of exceptional. Each tented room has a private wooden deck where you can sit and take in the views over the river. The communal area boasts wifi, a snooker room and a swimming pool. The sense of luxury continues at dinner time, where the food is not so much bush tucker as fine restaurant dining, with a good choice of delicious dishes on offer. And the staff, as well as providing first-class service, are an absolute pleasure.

Wild wonders

All this is impressive enough – and that’s before even considering the camp’s setting. Sand River is slap bang in the heart of East Africa’s most thrilling wildlife region, where the Masai Mara flanks Tanzania’s Serengeti just beyond the river. This is the pulsing heart of East Africa’s safari wilderness and very much in the thick of the wildlife action. The daily game drives from Sand River provide heaps of animal encounters, with the Big Five all lurking here, along with hundreds of other weird and wonderful creatures besides. We were delighted to get some great sightings of our own, including some precious glimpses (and photos, of which you can see one below) of the majestic lion affectionately known here as ‘Blondie’.

Blondie, who we spotted on the Masai Mara

Another exciting aspect to Sand River is its ideal placing for one of Earth’s greatest natural phenomena, the mass wildebeest migration. If you’re here sometime between July and October, and you’re lucky, you might just get a front-row seat as the incredible sight of masses of wildebeest, accompanied by zebras and gazelles, making their epic journey. But even outside this season, as our trip proved, the wildlife viewing here is sensational.

An elephant we photographed at a watering hole

Our stay at Sand River was one to remember. Despite it having opened less than a year ago, this tented camp has well and truly established itself as a remarkable addition to Kenya’s luxury travel scene, and earns our stamp of approval for Africa House guests. Elegant period luxury, impeccable service and a winning location make Sand River the perfect base for a classic Africa safari.

Solio so good

At its finer end, East African tourism has developed a tendency over recent years to deliver something extraordinary – which is to combine world-class accommodation and magnificent settings with a genuine ethical purpose. One leading in this new class of tourist destination is Solio, a lodge and conservancy in Kenya which we were thrilled to visit for ourselves a few weeks ago.
 
Chic and comfort
 
The lodge itself is nothing short of a delight in which to spend time, and will give design aficionados plenty to smile about. Its series of buildings are gorgeous, sculptural structures, each topped with stunning thatched roofs that resemble hills and blend into the landscape from a distance.


A beautiful bathroom at Solio

Inside, the rooms are styled with relaxed, organic features against soft white walls, with organic shapes and natural materials aplenty and the underside of those vast thatched roofs providing a sweeping textured canopy. This rustic African look is given a contemporary twist with zingy hits of orange and bold art and artefacts. And, beautiful as the rooms are, they rightly yield to the stunning scenery outside by having vast panoramic windows.
 
But more than simply looking good, Solio offers sumptuous luxury and service. The bedrooms and bathrooms are generously sized, and we loved the stylish freestanding bathtub. There’s also an open fireplace in each cottage – being located at a fairly high altitude, this region feels fresh in the evenings, so the fire brings a welcome element of comfort and cosiness. The lavish experience is completed by fantastic food, much of it grown at the lodge, and staff who are friendly, warm and only too happy to help.


A panoramic view of a twin room at Solio

Thrilling wildlife experiences
 
If you can pull yourself away from the charm and comfort of such a chic interior, a breathtaking slice of Africa awaits outside. A private conservancy such as this always offers a unique and exclusive way to witness Africa’s wild wonders. In an open grassy landscape flanked by the dramatic Mount Kenya and Aberdare Mountains, game drives at Solio promise a feast of wildlife encounters. You might spot anything from giraffes and antelopes to leopards and lions.
 

Some of the wildlife we witnessed in the conservancy

But the creatures for which Solio is best known are rhinos. You can expect to see both the white and the rarer black species on your adventures around the reserve (you can see a pair we managed to photograph above). Solio has become recognised as one of Africa's most important refuges and breeding grounds for rhinos, iconic animals whose populations have dwindled and whose future has become uncertain. Solio’s conservation programme has been so successful that it has been able to trans-locate over 160 rhinos to other parts of East Africa to replenish populations.
 
For us, the combination of achingly gorgeous style and luxury with thrilling wildlife insights and the creditable ethical motivation which underpins it, makes Solio an absolute winner. If you’re thinking of experiencing it for yourself, let us know and we’ll discuss how Solio could be part of your own dream safari itinerary.

High hopes for 2014

Which East African safari destinations are we excited about for 2014?
Tourism in Uganda is beginning to come alive with the introduction of schedule flights from Entebbe connecting the main points of interest. We had a look at Uganda last year and thoroughly enjoyed visiting Murchison Falls and Murchison National Park. And it was a particularly exciting experience to be amongst the chimps and encounter other primates on our walk through the Kibale Forest. We were also able to visit with the gorillas and enjoy a different trek experience in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

Have any new camps or lodges caught our eye for the Africa House portfolio?
Some of the accommodations in Uganda compared well with some of the top end camps and lodges in Kenya. Those that stood out were Kyanyinga Lodge (pictured, right) and Ndali Lodge in Kibale, Kyambura Gorge Lodge, just outside Queen Elizabeth National Park, and Gorilla Forest Camp in Bwindi. In Kenya, great new properties such as Ol Jogi, Sirai House, Segera and Elewana's Sand River Camp in the Masai Mara have pushed the boundaries of luxury to a new level. We hope to include these properties in a new and exciting Kenya, Tanzania and Zanzibar itinerary. Kilindi on Zanzibar and Mnemba Island just off Zanzibar to the North particularly caught our eye.

The stunning Kyanyinga Lodge in Uganda

What lies ahead for East African tourism?
This year there is a big opportunity for growth in the trending for multi-generational travel and first-timers on safari to experience the large herds of fabulous wildlife in East Africa in superb accommodations that have recently been added to the portfolio of luxury camps, lodges and bush homes.

What’s new in the Africa House Safaris team for 2014?
We have brought on board three safari guides that bring with them a wealth of many years’ experience and knowledge from guiding in East Africa. We will be looking to produce an exciting top-of-the-range safari itinerary using only the best properties, helicopters, private charters and superb guides.

Is there anywhere in East Africa we would personally like to explore this year?
We would love to find the time to visit places such as Namibia, Botswana, Victoria Falls and Ethiopia, all of which have some fabulous attractions that can easily attach to East African safaris to provide that enormous, unforgettable experience for anyone visiting Africa, whether they be first timers, old hands or regular repeat guests.

What insider tips would we offer to savvy safari travellers?
Pack light, bring a good camera with a good lens and something to stabilise your camera, such as a Groofwin pod – which is easy to attach to a vehicle yet light enough to include in your safari luggage.

Discovering Uganda – part 3: The unmistakable shoebill

One of the wonders of African wildlife is how endlessly diverse and curious is can be. While you might come with preconceptions of a quintessential scene where lions prowl the great savannah, there are a thousand other weird and wonderful creatures that might catch your eye while out on safari.
 
A creature that undoubtedly falls in this category is the fascinating shoebill. With its huge curving bill, mean eyes and menacing stature, the shoebill looks more like a character from Where the Wild Things Are than something evolution has produced. That fearsome prehistoric appearance is well-deserved too – the shoebill, standing at around four feet tall, is an impressive predator, preying on animals as large as baby crocodiles.
 

 

Among many other features that give Uganda special appeal, it is one of the best countries in Africa to seek out the shoebill. Its freshwater swamps provide the ideal habitat for the birds. And although there is never a guarantee of catching a glimpse of the notably solitary and shy shoebill in the wild, areas such as Mbamba Swamps, near Entebbe, and Murchison Falls, offer as a good a chance as anywhere.
 
The unique – and as the example of the shoebill shows – sometimes downright bizarre birdlife Uganda has to offer is one of the many attractions we’ve looked at in our three-part overview of this country’s natural attractions. Uganda is not the first destination people usually think of when considering a trip to Africa, but for those looking for something different from a more hidden Africa, it presents a genuinely unique travel proposition. We look forward to exploring further the possibilities of crafting high-quality options for our guests here. Without a doubt, Uganda is one to watch.

Out on its own

A long way from the familiar National Parks and Reserves, in Kenya’s remote Northern Frontier lies Sarara, a small, intimate tented camp surrounded by wilderness. The only accommodation for miles around, this is truly wild and immersive. It also happens to have style, luxury, amazing food and exemplary eco credentials.
 
Wild and free

Being off the beaten track has its benefits. While the major wildlife regions such as the Masai Mara and Amboseli offer the must-see thrills of abundant game viewing in classic safari country, delving deeper into the more mysterious northern parts of Kenya reveals a whole other aspect to Africa and one which many guests find intensely rewarding.
 

Sarara's infinity pool and the mountain view beyond

One obvious benefit of a location like this is experiencing the space and beauty of Africa with relatively few other people around. The quietness brings out the timeless quality of Africa’s wilderness and can be powerfully moving.
 
Another great advantage of Sarara’s particular location on the Namunyak Range in Laikipia, is that despite having less wildlife than the big safari regions, it’s brilliant for spotting some of Africa’s more unusual and elusive species. Guests at Sarara often enjoy sightings of leopards, African wild dogs, lesser kudus and aardwolves, to name but a few. And unlike in the big parks, there’s the distinct bonus of being allowed to wander on foot in bush walks.
 
The wildlife is far from being the only spectacle to take in here. The dramatically pointed mountains of Mathews Range make a stunning focal point, and rugged bushland unfold all around.

Comfort and charm

With such beautiful surroundings, the Sarara camp has a lot to live up to – and obligingly, it delivers in abundance. Comfortingly rustic camping charm combines with chic touches, high-ceilinged tents and great personal facilities (basics like running water, electric lighting and indoor flushing toilets become assets that you can suddenly appreciate in a place so remote).
 

Rustic luxury - one of Sarara's bedroom tents

A real treat is a natural rock infinity pool with in which you can gaze out at the splendour of the mountain range beyond. The pool also overlooks the nearby watering hole, so while you lounge in the water, you might be entertained by elephants or kudus as they drop off daily for a drink.
 
An eco dream

Sarara’s thoughtful regard to its relationship with the environment and local community add yet further points to its sizeable list of merits. Much of its food is grown organically on-site. Its water is supplied by is a gravity-fed system from the mountains. Building materials have been locally sourced with minimal impact.
 
But the wider picture is the success of the community conservation project in which Sarara Camp plays an important part. Working together with the local Samburu community, the Namunyak Wildlife Conservation Trust has transformed this region, helping to protect wildlife and halt the elephant poaching which had previously been rife here. Sustainable tourism practised by the likes of Sarara has been crucial in incentivising this environmental protection.
 
Sarara offers pure eco luxury and is a testament to how good tourism can be when it’s small-scale, high-quality and delivered with passion and conviction. We’d happily stay there time and time again. And if this fits with your own dream of Africa, we’d love to take you there too.

Discovering Uganda - part 2

A few weeks ago, we began a series of reports from our recent exploration of Uganda. We recently toured this lesser-travelled country to experience first-hand some of its greatest natural treasures, with a view to introducing them as travel options for our own guests. Having talked last time about our unforgettable gorilla tracking trip to Bwindi forest, this month we turn our attention to another of the country’s primates, the universally adored chimpanzee. We also share our thoughts on the nearby watery wonderland of Murchison Falls.
 
Chimp tracking at Kibale
 
If there’s one animal guaranteed to make people smile, it’s the cheeky chimpanzee. Famed for their intelligence and close genetic link with humans, chimps have earned a special regard in popular culture, even becoming stars of TV and films. So the chance to see these charismatic creatures up close in the wild really was something special.

Karen getting a great view of a chimp

Kibale National Park was the destination for this endeavour – it has the biggest population of chimps in Uganda and the densest population of primates in Africa. Although good sightings are never guaranteed in the unpredictable wild, we were lucky to have some brilliantly close encounters with the chimps, which appeared totally at ease frolicking and swinging from branch to branch while we watched in awe.

A close-up shot of a laid-back chimp

Even without its chimps, Kibale National Park is a tantalising place. Its lush tropical rainforest provides a habitat for a huge array of other primates, including the black colobus and the red-tailed mangabey. It’s also a dream location for bird lovers, with over 300 species of birds, from barbets and warblers to parrots and sunbirds, in a wonderfully varied array of sizes and colours.

Magnificent Murchison
 
Just to the north of Kibale, we visited the beautiful Murchison National Park. This area is home to much of Africa’s classic big fauna, including elephants, buffaloes, giraffes, hippos and crocodiles. But the park’s crowning glory, though far from inanimate, isn’t anything from the animal kingdom – it’s the dramatic Murchison Falls.

This cascade, the most spectacular in East Africa, occurs where the waters of the mighty Nile are squeezed through an 8-metre gorge before crashing down over 40 metres in a roaring haze of white water. It’s easy to see why so many illustrious names from history, including Churchill, Roosevelt and Hemingway, have been drawn to the intriguing beauty of the falls and Murchison’s other wonders.

The mighty Murchison falls at a distance

This leg of our Ugandan experience offered yet further evidence of the stunning variety and natural beauty to be enjoyed in this corner of East Africa. It has also been great food for thought in planning further safari adventures for our own guests. Next time, we conclude our Uganda review with a look at the bizarre but beautiful shoebill bird.

Fast-track to paradise

When you first land in Kenya at Nairobi’s busy international airport, the wild, remote Africa which likely enticed you here might still seem a long way off. So what’s amazing about Emakoko Lodge in Nairobi National Park is that, despite being located in a thoroughly rural Emakoko Lodgeand serene setting and surrounded by wildlife, you can get there well within an hour of setting foot in Kenya.

The serene surroundings at Emakoko

Despite its proximity to Nairobi, Emakoko is far more than simply a convenient stop-off. Of course, this location does make it a very handy place to start or finish your East African safari. But Emakoko also stands on it own as accommodation of considerable quality and character, and which frequently leaves guests very pleasantly surprised.

For one thing, Emakoko abounds with style and charm. The kind of style that suits Africa perfectly – simple, organic, earthy and calming – thanks to rustic yet tasteful décor that includes natural branch railings and homely stone fireplaces. It’s enough to create relaxation and a luxury feel while leaving the environment beyond its walls to do most of the talking. And the surroundings here are certainly worth taking notice of. The lodge is cleverly slotted into the side of a valley Bedroom at Emakokowith rooms overlooking leafy woodland, the river which flows nearby and the open bushland beyond.

One of Emakoko's stylish bedrooms

Complementing Emakoko's natural charms and impressive design, the brilliant quality of service and hospitality make it the complete package. Friendly without being intrusive, the small, welcoming team of staff run by the family who independently own Emakoko, frequently prompt praise from guests.

All of which makes this surprising little gem just outside the bustling capital a compelling accommodation option and one which we’re pleased to endorse and take guests to. If you would like to stay at Emakoko as part of your safari itinerary, we’d love to take you there.