Five fascinating flamingo facts

1. The flamingos that are a characteristic presence along the Great Rift Valley in East Africa are actually lesser flamingos. They are found around the lakes throughout Ethiopia, Kenya and Tanzania. These are marked out from five other species of flamingo by their relatively small size and black colouring on their bills.

2. It is not known whether the populations of lesser flamingos in East Africa are genetically related to a smaller isolated population living in India. But a new study being conducted at the UK’s University of Leicester is aiming to discover just that, through genetic research on feathers from birds at each location. Revealing whether or not these groups of flamingos are distinct or whether they interact might clear up long-standing mystery about their migratory patterns.

3. Flamingos feed on blue-green algae, and to a lesser extent, shrimp. Surprisingly, it is the algae that give the lesser flamingo its characteristic soft pink colouring, as they are virtually all this species eats. The algae contain a photosynthetic pigment which is expressed in the birds’ plumage. The particular algae favoured by flamingos, mainly Spirulina, only grow in alkaline water, which explains the concentrations of the birds around the soda lakes of the Great Rift Valley.

4. It is thought by many that the flamingo may have inspired the ancient myth of the phoenix, the immortal firebird which burns periodically then is reborn from the ashes. The flamingo, as well as having a majestic stature and otherworldly bright colouring, has another feature which is phoenix-like – flamingos build a raised mound nest above salt flats, which are too hot for the eggs, creating a convection effect that resembles the flames you might expect during a phoenix re-birth.

5. East Africa is home to over 2 million lesser flamingos, the largest concentration in the world. They create a vast sea of pink as they gather at their regular breeding ground at Lake Natron, in Tanzania, close to the Kenya border. They also appear in huge flocks in Kenya at Lake Nakuru (their main feeding ground) and Lake Bogoria.

Click here to see a stunning film of flamingos at Lake Bogoria:

The high life

In our last newsletter we reported on our recent action-packed trip to Ndutu in Tanzania. While our account ended there, our exploration of the East African wilderness didn’t. The next stage of our start-of-year holiday took us over the border into Kenya, where the next few days took on a distinctively hilly character.

A house with history

The first hill to climb was that leading to the alluring Grogan’s Castle. This unusual and imposing white-walled mansion is a curious blend of European and Arabic architecture, with more than a hint of bold art deco stylings which reflect its 1930s construction. Wrought-iron entrance gates, wide curving staircases and huge rooms create a sense of grandeur and luxury.

An en-suite bedroom at Grogan's Castle

The elevation of Grogan’s Castle makes for a spectacular stay. On arrival we were struck by the amazing views of the surrounding landscape. Stood atop an isolated hill, the house has breathtaking 360-degrees views, with the towering form of Mount Kilimanjaro which stands nearby dominating the skyline to the north-west. We also gazed out over Lake Jipe and the Pare Mountains.

The mansion comes complete with irresistible historical associations. Ewart Grogan, the man who built the house as his residence over 70 years ago, certainly had an interesting story. He was an influential settler from England with a mixed reputation that included charm, wit and vision, but also arrogance and a rebellious streak. Grogan is best known for being the first person to make the perilous trans-African journey from Cape Town to Cairo, a challenge he undertook to impress the father of Gertrude, the woman he loved. The feat paid off as he later married her. A children’s hospital he built in her name still stands in Nairobi today.

The romance of this story certainly adds to the mystique of the accommodation. And with spacious bedrooms (to which the word ‘double’ hardly does justice), sensitive recent renovations, friendly staff and wonderful food, our time at Grogan’s Castle was one to remember for all the right reasons.

The view with a lodge

Our next stop was out east at Lumo Conservancy and to another elevated location at the renowned Lion’s Bluff eco-lodge. We were taken aback by vast, sweeping vistas over the classic African savannah, sparsely studded with acacia trees and spreading out to mountains on the horizon. The lodge enables you to take in these sights in style, with each of its raised tents complete with its own veranda. It’s unsurprising that Lion’s Bluff is wittily dubbed ‘the view with a lodge’.

A Lion's Bluff cottage

But while the surroundings are breathtaking, the lodge is pretty impressive too, with rustic charm in abundance. With four-poster beds and balcony balustrades crafted from timber in its naturally bumpy, irregular form, and pointed coconut-thatched roofs, it’s heaven for lovers of natural chic living. Excellent cuisine and welcoming, attentive service completed the comfort of our stay.

The thing that you really come to Lumo to enjoy, however, is the incredible game-viewing. Lumo Conservancy, a part of the Tsavo National Park, is a hub of animal activity, and both day and night game drives are available here to make the most of this opportunity. Wildlife highlights during our stay included numerous elephant sightings, following a male lion for hours, a night-time sighting of a striped hyena and wonderful bird sightings (photos of which can be seen below).

This short tour of southern Kenya has reconnected us with the beauty we’re so keen to share with our guests. It serves as a reminder of how amazing wildlife, stunning scenery and gorgeous accommodation combine to make this part of the world so uniquely magical.

Here are a few of our wildlife snaps from Lumo Conservancy:

Lilac-breasted roller

European roller

Lesser kudu

Yellow-necked spur fowl

Bateleur eagle

Yellow-necked spur fowl