Discovering Uganda – part 3: The unmistakable shoebill

One of the wonders of African wildlife is how endlessly diverse and curious is can be. While you might come with preconceptions of a quintessential scene where lions prowl the great savannah, there are a thousand other weird and wonderful creatures that might catch your eye while out on safari.
 
A creature that undoubtedly falls in this category is the fascinating shoebill. With its huge curving bill, mean eyes and menacing stature, the shoebill looks more like a character from Where the Wild Things Are than something evolution has produced. That fearsome prehistoric appearance is well-deserved too – the shoebill, standing at around four feet tall, is an impressive predator, preying on animals as large as baby crocodiles.
 

 

Among many other features that give Uganda special appeal, it is one of the best countries in Africa to seek out the shoebill. Its freshwater swamps provide the ideal habitat for the birds. And although there is never a guarantee of catching a glimpse of the notably solitary and shy shoebill in the wild, areas such as Mbamba Swamps, near Entebbe, and Murchison Falls, offer as a good a chance as anywhere.
 
The unique – and as the example of the shoebill shows – sometimes downright bizarre birdlife Uganda has to offer is one of the many attractions we’ve looked at in our three-part overview of this country’s natural attractions. Uganda is not the first destination people usually think of when considering a trip to Africa, but for those looking for something different from a more hidden Africa, it presents a genuinely unique travel proposition. We look forward to exploring further the possibilities of crafting high-quality options for our guests here. Without a doubt, Uganda is one to watch.

Out on its own

A long way from the familiar National Parks and Reserves, in Kenya’s remote Northern Frontier lies Sarara, a small, intimate tented camp surrounded by wilderness. The only accommodation for miles around, this is truly wild and immersive. It also happens to have style, luxury, amazing food and exemplary eco credentials.
 
Wild and free

Being off the beaten track has its benefits. While the major wildlife regions such as the Masai Mara and Amboseli offer the must-see thrills of abundant game viewing in classic safari country, delving deeper into the more mysterious northern parts of Kenya reveals a whole other aspect to Africa and one which many guests find intensely rewarding.
 

Sarara's infinity pool and the mountain view beyond

One obvious benefit of a location like this is experiencing the space and beauty of Africa with relatively few other people around. The quietness brings out the timeless quality of Africa’s wilderness and can be powerfully moving.
 
Another great advantage of Sarara’s particular location on the Namunyak Range in Laikipia, is that despite having less wildlife than the big safari regions, it’s brilliant for spotting some of Africa’s more unusual and elusive species. Guests at Sarara often enjoy sightings of leopards, African wild dogs, lesser kudus and aardwolves, to name but a few. And unlike in the big parks, there’s the distinct bonus of being allowed to wander on foot in bush walks.
 
The wildlife is far from being the only spectacle to take in here. The dramatically pointed mountains of Mathews Range make a stunning focal point, and rugged bushland unfold all around.

Comfort and charm

With such beautiful surroundings, the Sarara camp has a lot to live up to – and obligingly, it delivers in abundance. Comfortingly rustic camping charm combines with chic touches, high-ceilinged tents and great personal facilities (basics like running water, electric lighting and indoor flushing toilets become assets that you can suddenly appreciate in a place so remote).
 

Rustic luxury - one of Sarara's bedroom tents

A real treat is a natural rock infinity pool with in which you can gaze out at the splendour of the mountain range beyond. The pool also overlooks the nearby watering hole, so while you lounge in the water, you might be entertained by elephants or kudus as they drop off daily for a drink.
 
An eco dream

Sarara’s thoughtful regard to its relationship with the environment and local community add yet further points to its sizeable list of merits. Much of its food is grown organically on-site. Its water is supplied by is a gravity-fed system from the mountains. Building materials have been locally sourced with minimal impact.
 
But the wider picture is the success of the community conservation project in which Sarara Camp plays an important part. Working together with the local Samburu community, the Namunyak Wildlife Conservation Trust has transformed this region, helping to protect wildlife and halt the elephant poaching which had previously been rife here. Sustainable tourism practised by the likes of Sarara has been crucial in incentivising this environmental protection.
 
Sarara offers pure eco luxury and is a testament to how good tourism can be when it’s small-scale, high-quality and delivered with passion and conviction. We’d happily stay there time and time again. And if this fits with your own dream of Africa, we’d love to take you there too.

Discovering Uganda - part 2

A few weeks ago, we began a series of reports from our recent exploration of Uganda. We recently toured this lesser-travelled country to experience first-hand some of its greatest natural treasures, with a view to introducing them as travel options for our own guests. Having talked last time about our unforgettable gorilla tracking trip to Bwindi forest, this month we turn our attention to another of the country’s primates, the universally adored chimpanzee. We also share our thoughts on the nearby watery wonderland of Murchison Falls.
 
Chimp tracking at Kibale
 
If there’s one animal guaranteed to make people smile, it’s the cheeky chimpanzee. Famed for their intelligence and close genetic link with humans, chimps have earned a special regard in popular culture, even becoming stars of TV and films. So the chance to see these charismatic creatures up close in the wild really was something special.

Karen getting a great view of a chimp

Kibale National Park was the destination for this endeavour – it has the biggest population of chimps in Uganda and the densest population of primates in Africa. Although good sightings are never guaranteed in the unpredictable wild, we were lucky to have some brilliantly close encounters with the chimps, which appeared totally at ease frolicking and swinging from branch to branch while we watched in awe.

A close-up shot of a laid-back chimp

Even without its chimps, Kibale National Park is a tantalising place. Its lush tropical rainforest provides a habitat for a huge array of other primates, including the black colobus and the red-tailed mangabey. It’s also a dream location for bird lovers, with over 300 species of birds, from barbets and warblers to parrots and sunbirds, in a wonderfully varied array of sizes and colours.

Magnificent Murchison
 
Just to the north of Kibale, we visited the beautiful Murchison National Park. This area is home to much of Africa’s classic big fauna, including elephants, buffaloes, giraffes, hippos and crocodiles. But the park’s crowning glory, though far from inanimate, isn’t anything from the animal kingdom – it’s the dramatic Murchison Falls.

This cascade, the most spectacular in East Africa, occurs where the waters of the mighty Nile are squeezed through an 8-metre gorge before crashing down over 40 metres in a roaring haze of white water. It’s easy to see why so many illustrious names from history, including Churchill, Roosevelt and Hemingway, have been drawn to the intriguing beauty of the falls and Murchison’s other wonders.

The mighty Murchison falls at a distance

This leg of our Ugandan experience offered yet further evidence of the stunning variety and natural beauty to be enjoyed in this corner of East Africa. It has also been great food for thought in planning further safari adventures for our own guests. Next time, we conclude our Uganda review with a look at the bizarre but beautiful shoebill bird.

Fast-track to paradise

When you first land in Kenya at Nairobi’s busy international airport, the wild, remote Africa which likely enticed you here might still seem a long way off. So what’s amazing about Emakoko Lodge in Nairobi National Park is that, despite being located in a thoroughly rural Emakoko Lodgeand serene setting and surrounded by wildlife, you can get there well within an hour of setting foot in Kenya.

The serene surroundings at Emakoko

Despite its proximity to Nairobi, Emakoko is far more than simply a convenient stop-off. Of course, this location does make it a very handy place to start or finish your East African safari. But Emakoko also stands on it own as accommodation of considerable quality and character, and which frequently leaves guests very pleasantly surprised.

For one thing, Emakoko abounds with style and charm. The kind of style that suits Africa perfectly – simple, organic, earthy and calming – thanks to rustic yet tasteful décor that includes natural branch railings and homely stone fireplaces. It’s enough to create relaxation and a luxury feel while leaving the environment beyond its walls to do most of the talking. And the surroundings here are certainly worth taking notice of. The lodge is cleverly slotted into the side of a valley Bedroom at Emakokowith rooms overlooking leafy woodland, the river which flows nearby and the open bushland beyond.

One of Emakoko's stylish bedrooms

Complementing Emakoko's natural charms and impressive design, the brilliant quality of service and hospitality make it the complete package. Friendly without being intrusive, the small, welcoming team of staff run by the family who independently own Emakoko, frequently prompt praise from guests.

All of which makes this surprising little gem just outside the bustling capital a compelling accommodation option and one which we’re pleased to endorse and take guests to. If you would like to stay at Emakoko as part of your safari itinerary, we’d love to take you there.

Discovering Uganda

Even for those of us who see a lot of East Africa, the region’s staggering variety still holds the power to surprise and excite with new sights. This has proved true yet again on our recent exploration of Uganda. Despite bordering Kenya, this lesser-known neighbour has some striking differences. Uganda’s lush tropical rainforests seem a world apart from the dusty open savannah of Kenya’s famous safari landscapes. And its own very distinctive natural wonders endow Uganda with a highly unique visitor appeal.
 
On our travels to Uganda we sought out the country’s finest offerings with a view to presenting them as compelling new extension options for our guests on safari in Kenya and Tanzania. Over our next three newsletters, starting this month, we’ll reveal our top discoveries in Uganda as a preview of what may well become available as experiences for guests of Africa House soon. We start with our magical trip to see Uganda’s most famous wildlife wonder: its beautiful mountain gorillas.

Tracking gorillas at Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Of all the wild experiences that Africa has to offer, there’s simply nothing quite like tracking mountain gorillas in their own habitat, which we were thrilled to do ourselves a couple of weeks ago. Trekking through the tropical rainforest of Bwindi – whose incredibly dense vegetation makes it thoroughly deserving of its ‘Impenetrable’ description – is intoxicating enough. But to take in the statuesque grace of the forest’s resident gorillas as they come into view is simply out of this world.
 

Only around 810 mountain gorillas remain anywhere on Earth and around half of these are found in right here in Bwindi. While it is a tragedy that this species to which we are so closely related is endangered to this degree, responsible tourism is contributing to their protection (the global number was as low as 700 in 2006). It is an encouraging thought that the very act of going to visit these majestic animals is helping to address their plight.
 
The forest itself was a magical place to visit, and teeming with life besides its main primate attraction. In fact, it is so rich in biodiversity that it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site on grounds of ecological importance. With a colourful and diverse display of monkeys, birds, butterflies and reptiles, Bwindi is a fascinating treasure house for wildlife lovers.
 
But the stars of the show on this leg of our Ugandan adventure were, inevitably, the gorillas. To stand as close as we did to these incredibly powerful yet gentle creatures is an unforgettable pleasure and privilege. Not one of the group with whom we travelled was unmoved by the experience – and we’d recommended the encounter to our guests in an instant.

Getting the picture (part two)

Last month, we introduced you to photographer Dmitri Markine, who we interviewed recently to seek his professional insights on taking great photos in Africa. In addition to his main job as one of Canada’s leading wedding photographers, Dmitri has travelled extensively through East Africa, creating beautiful shots of the region’s people, wildlife and landscapes. We conclude our feature this month with the second half of our interview with Dmitri, and we thank him for taking the time to inspire us.

Do Africa’s unique features present particular opportunities or challenges for a photographer?

Finding the best light is always a challenge for a photographer. Very rarely do I use an external flash source and I always try to use the sun to my advantage. Ideally, sunrise and sunset are the best time for photography and I tend to take more pictures during that period. If the sun is really harsh, I attempt to either take photographs of people in the shade or position myself so that it does not bother me as much. At times it involves a lot of waiting while I frame the scene and wait for a subject to walk into it.

© Dmitri Markine

Is there a particular story you seek to tell through your photography in Africa?

I am always attempting to photograph real lives of people and the wildlife. Africa is an amazing place that you won’t be able to fully discover in a lifetime and I am just happy to explore it and perhaps help others to see how amazing our world is. Many people live their lives in a very basic environment and do not have the luxuries we have, such as computers, cars or even proper food and water, yet they seem so genuinely happy!

Your images have an intriguing otherworldly quality. How important are post-production techniques in achieving that feel?

I consider myself more of an artist than a photographer. I just found that a camera is the best medium to express myself. I consider editing as an important part of photography. Photographers used dark rooms as their “Photoshop” 60-80 years ago and could do some amazing things. Now with the digital, many photographers have found themselves unable to learn complex editing software such as Adobe Photoshop. I was lucky to start learning Photoshop in the 90s and I use it along with Adobe Lightroom to enhance my photographs. I am a firm believer, though, in taking a good photograph and only then to use the editing on it. I don’t think it is possible to make an image great if it wasn’t any good in a first place.

© Dmitri Markine

People commonly think that without expensive, advanced equipment, taking truly extraordinary photos is beyond their reach. Is that so?

Good quality equipment can make it easier for you to capture images, but it will not make you a great photographer. I personally found that since many people can’t really use DSLRs properly, their images don’t come out as well as they would if shooting with a point-and-shoot camera, which already have all the auto settings built-in to take beautiful photographs that don’t need any external editing. I use Canon s100 point-and-shoot camera for photographs of my family while on vacation and road trips with great success.  And with some editing, those photographs can rival images from my professional equipment which costs 20 times more! My first ever Africa trip to Kenya was with an old Canon 10D camera from 2003, along with some really basic cheap lenses. I was able to take images good enough to be featured in magazines, receive dozens of awards and sold to a private galleries and businesses.
  
Dmitri’s photographs are available to buy as framed canvas prints – contact him at info@dmitrimarkine.com or on +1(416)841-3066. Further information about his international wedding photography service can be found at www.dmitrimarkine.com.

Future bright for Kenya and its tourist industry

The smooth and peaceful resolution of the recent presidential election in Kenya has been strongly welcomed both by the Kenyan people and the international community – and comes as a welcome shot of optimism for the country’s tourism trade.

Following the disputed outcome of last month’s election, the Supreme Court in Nairobi has upheld the result, meaning that Uhuru Kenyatta will be sworn into office as President on 9 April. The peaceful acceptance of this decision and the acknowledgement that the election process has been free and fair have attracted sweeping praise of Kenya’s handling of the process. There has been no repeat of the unrest which surrounded the 2007 election, prompting quiet celebration about the country’s developing democratic maturity.

The news has positive implications for tourism in Kenya. Clearly, a secure and progressive political climate creates the right conditions for sustaining a stable tourist industry, and to promote confidence throughout the international community about choosing Kenya as a holiday destination.

But further to this, the choice of incoming president can be regarded as a particular source of optimism for those of us involved in tourism. Kenyatta has previously worked as Chairman of the Kenya Tourist Board, so is closely attuned to the needs of the sector. He has also expressed a keen awareness of the need to protect Kenya’s natural environment, including its threatened wildlife.

In this new chapter for Kenya, we are hopeful that we can continue to grow as a progressive and maturing nation – and also to look forward to a system of governance which safeguards our phenomenal natural assets and cements Kenya's place as one of the world’s most attractive and welcoming places to visit.

Getting the picture (part one)

Dmitri with lionesses

When visiting Africa, taking photos to be proud of is high on most people’s agenda. The colour, variety and drama of its wildlife, landscapes and tribal culture make Africa a feast for the eyes. But while there’s no shortage of inspiring imagery to shoot, the finer creative endeavours of travel photography remains a mystery to most of us.
 
One man who has mastered the art of capturing Africa’s unique beauty on camera is esteemed photographer Dmitri Markine. When he hasn’t been busy working as one of Canada’s most sought-after wedding photographers, Dmitri has traversed the globe, documenting the world before him in exquisite photos – many of which have won awards and appeared on the covers of National Geographic and other prestigious publications. These travels have brought Dmitri to East Africa on numerous occasions, where he has produced beautiful and insightful images of indigenous people, wildlife and landscapes.

With photography an important part of the safari experience for many of our guests, we talked to Dmitri this month to get his expert views on taking great shots – and to find out what inspires his own photography in Africa. With Dmitri’s kind permission we’ve also reproduced some of his own stunning shots. Here’s the first part of our interview (with the second half coming in next month’s newsletter):
 
Which regions of Africa have you explored as a photographer and which places have you been most inspired by?

Over the years, I’ve had a chance to visit Morocco, Egypt, Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana, South Africa and Zambia. I really liked Kenya for the wildlife and Ethiopia for a unique opportunity to see some of the most unique tribes. Every country has something special though and I am always trying to find something interesting and unique to photograph.

'Ethiopian Coffee' © Dmitri Markine

As a top wedding photographer, is it people’s lives that inspire you the most artistically?
 
I really love photographing people. We all have different customs and traditions, eat food that others find taboo. I find it all fascinating and welcome a chance to get to find out more about the lives of those people. It is very similar with my wedding business. I photograph a lot of cultural weddings and I love how they are all so different and interesting.
 
Do you have any tips for amateur photographers out on safari in Africa?
 
I always use two cameras as I don’t like to switch lenses, especially in African countries, which tend to be very dusty. Currently I use Canon gear. One camera (5D Mark III) has a wide angle lens (Canon 24L f1.4) and the other camera has either Sigma 50-500 or Canon 70-200L 2.8 attached to it. For safaris, a lens with 200mm or more is definitely recommended, especially for close-ups and birds. I think it is essential for all photographers to know the gear and use different settings to your advantage. Patience is a must for any wildlife photography as sometimes it can take a long time to find something interesting and then it may take even longer to take that perfect shot.

'Walk with Lions' © Dmitri Markine

Dmitri’s photographs are available to buy as framed canvas prints – contact him at info@dmitrimarkine.com or on +1(416)841-3066. Further information about his international wedding photography service can be found at www.dmitrimarkine.com.

Great starts and happy endings

In planning a safari holiday, the focus naturally tends to be on the thrilling days and nights spent out in the bush. But choosing the right property for settling into Africa when you arrive, and for winding down at the end, can embellish your time here with a complementary experience that rounds off your African adventure perfectly.

That’s why we were delighted to acquaint ourselves with Onsea House, a gem of a guest house near Arusha in Tanzania, on our recent expedition in the region in search of the best accommodation for our guests. And for those who covet maximum R&R in a holiday, Onsea House is now joined by a sister property, Machweo. This ‘wellness retreat’ is the place to be if pampering is on your tick-list. Whether it’s a swim in the pool, an avocado oil jacuzzi, a steam bath or a deep tissue massage, there’s everything you need here to leave you relaxed and revitalised.

Despite being just a few miles from the centre of Arusha, Onsea provides a thoroughly serene location. Landscaped gardens create a luxurious and calming immediate scene. But the real star is Africa’s own landscapes beyond. Rolling hills studded with baobab and acacia trees stretch up to the glorious Mount Meru on the horizon. Onsea House’s elevated position takes full advantage of these inspiring views and makes watching the sunset here especially enchanting.

The house itself strikes just the right balance between privacy and personal service. Priding itself on being ‘a home from home’, Onsea goes to great lengths to create a sense of comfort. With a relatively small number of guests accommodated at any one time, the focus really is on a quality experience. Inside, the style is understated and classy, with a clean and contemporary look which is warmed with touches of woody rusticity that you’d hope for in Africa.

Foodies are in for a treat at Onsea. Michelin-experienced chef Axel is clearly a man in the know when it comes to quality cuisine. He combines his Belgian roots with his current surroundings to deliver excellent fusion food – classic European dishes with accents from Africa.

We would return to Onsea House and Machweo without hesitation. The great service, amazing food, chic accommodation and gorgeous surroundings combine to make this guest house and retreat a pretty irresistible stop-off while in Tanzania. But more importantly, it’s another stunning accommodation to which we can take our guests – with the confidence that they’ll enjoy the standard of quality which would be expected from an Africa House safari experience.

Africa House's new baby!

We are delighted to announce that we have just become the proud ‘foster parents’ of a young elephant through the African conservation charity The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (under whose care he remains despite our adoption!)

The gorgeous young elephant in question (pictured, right) is called Chemi Chemi. He was found completely alone as a young calf, next to a water spring (hence his name, which is Swahili for ‘a spring’) – it is thought that his family were killed by poachers.


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Following his rescue and transfer to the care of the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, Chemi Chemi took to being bottle-fed and soon settled into his new herd. The matriarchal figure of the group has embraced Chemi Chemi as her own, providing the protection and attention that was missing since the loss of his own mother. He is now three-and-a-half years old and enjoys a happy existence and a bright future.
 
The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is a lifeline for animals whose well-being and chance of survival would otherwise be compromised. And the charity’s dedicated efforts have made a vital contribution to conservation work to protect Africa’s endangered species, in particular elephants and black rhinos.
 
So, at Africa House, we are very pleased to play our small part in supporting the Trust’s highly worthwhile work. As well as helping to alleviate the suffering of individual animals like Chemi Chemi, the David Sheldrick Trust and other charities like it are helping to conserve the irreplaceable species and environments which are so life-affirming to anyone who has ever been on safari – and which we should all treasure.

'Wild is best'

For wildlife lovers, Africa is the ultimate adventure playground. So it’s always a pleasure to be hear how inspired how our guests have been by what they’ve encountered while out on safari with us. We’re delighted to be able to reproduce a letter from a recent guest, Andre, about how the wildlife-spotting anticipations were met while on safari with his wife and friends (interspersed with a couple of Andre’s great photographs from the trip):

Both David and I had been on safari with Africa House before, but that was a hardcore photographic event with 'Amateur Photographer Magazine' in 2010. We liked it so much that this year we wanted to bring our wives so that they could share in the fantastic wildlife of Kenya. This time we had two specific requests – the first was to see the mountain gorillas in Rwanda and the second was to see both black and white rhino in the wild. Africa House organised everything: safari camps, hotels, internal flights, game drives – everything. All we had to do was turn up at Nairobi airport.

A gorilla at Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda

The gorillas were wonderful. You would never think that you could be so close to these magnificent creatures. Our initial fears were totally unfounded as they seemed totally at ease with our presence with the silverback passing within 2 feet of us as he went off into the jungle. The people of Rwanda are wonderful, so open and friendly and always smiling. Our guide, Eric, was very knowledgeable and gave us a great insight into the culture of Rwanda.

We started our Kenyan safari at Lewa Safari camp and were treated to a mass of wildlife including many rhino, both black and white – such fantastic beasts. In fact, the only animals we didn't see at Lewa were the leopard and the wildebeest and these we saw later at Little Governor’s and in the Mara. Whilst in Kenya we were accompanied by John, our guide, and Jackson, our driver. Their love of the animals shone through and really made an exciting safari memorable. We had a really great time.

Rhinos at Lewa Conservancy, Kenya

Initially, my wife Jan was concerned about being so close to lions, cheetahs and leopards in an open vehicle, having only seen caged animals before. Now she is totally at ease with the experience and really believes that 'wild is best'.

We've got to thank Karen and David for organising our trip of a lifetime. Will we be back? You bet!! All the best and hope to see you again in the not too distant future.

Andre