Cats, calves and coffee boys

When we’re not arranging safaris for our guests, we love to take the opportunity to explore the wonders of East Africa for ourselves. We did just that last month as friends from the UK joined us on safari in Ndutu, located in the southern part of Tanzania’s renowned Serengeti National Park. Around January, this corner of the Serengeti becomes an epicentre of wildlife activity, with game gathering and alternating between long and short grass plains – so we were hopeful about the prospect of witnessing some dramatic action. Fortunately, we were treated to precisely that, as a variety of Africa’s most mesmerising natural spectacles played out before us.

The 'Coffee Boys' after taking
down a wildebeest

The region provided a generous display of big cat activity. Huge prides of lions paraded the plains, combining with the landscape to create a very iconic African scene. And we were lucky to see often-elusive cheetahs going about their business. We came upon the ‘coffee boys’ known in this region – three cheetah brothers who have been named Mocha, Latte and Espresso. We watched the group for a whole morning as they killed a wildebeest then two tore into the carcass while the third kept watch for intruders who might be curious about their catch.

Ndutu is also the perfect place to see wildebeest at the start of the year. As part of their perpetual migration around the Serengeti-Masai Mara ecosystem, many of the animals are concentrated here in January. And what makes this stage of the migration special is the onset of calving season – with 80% of wildebeest being born from January to mid-March. We were lucky to see a newly born wildebeest calf. Witnessing the tender moment between mother and child revealed a rare personal aspect to a species which usually summons up images of vast herds traversing the savannah in unison – a spectacular but contrasting sight which can be seen later in the season.

A baby wildebeest with its mother

The Serengeti also hosts a staggering abundance and variety of bird life, evidence of which is especially apparent during this season. A definite ornithological highlight for us was seeing a huge group of white storks gathered on the plains. These unmistakable birds, with their long beaks and hulking forms, had flown in from Europe. They spend winter in Africa before returning north later where they take a break from delivering babies to human mums and settle to raise their own young!

On top of our amazing wildlife experiences in Ndutu, the safari was enhanced further by the quality of our accommodation at Lake Masek Tented Camp. Understated rustic simplicity provided the ideal complement to the sublime wilderness surrounding the camp. Raised on wooden platforms, each tent comes with a veranda, taking full opportunity of the momentous views. Comfortable beds in generous bedroom spaces, plentiful hot water and outdoor showers provided all the comfort we needed. And that all-important element of great service was also present here – our friendly, attentive hosts ensured that we were well looked after, and even went as far as offering to re-stitch a damaged beanbag we use as a camera support in our vehicle. Extra care like that is something which you don’t expect.

White storks arriving from Europe

Witnessing the theatre of the Serengeti at an active moment while also experiencing fine African hospitality, our holiday amounted to being in the right place at the right time. For our companions and us, this trip was a great example of what safari is all about – fun, drama and luxury.

One conservancy's fight to save the rhino

The story of Africa's black and white rhinoceroses is a sobering reminder of how devastating the practices of our own species can be for some of our fellow creatures. Over recent decades rhinos have been ruthlessly and illegally killed for their horns, which are believed by some traditional medicine systems to have therapeutic properties, despite the total absence of scientific evidence for this claim. The global black rhino population, for example, has fallen alarmingly from around 70000 in the late 1960s to 5000 today, a level which makes the species critically endangered.

One programme that is striving to help the black rhino and the southern white rhino is that which is being run at Lewa Downs Conservancy. Situated in northern Kenya, an important region for these species, Lewa is currently home to 65 black and 46 southern white rhinos. The conservation team here are committed to encouraging breeding amongst the population, monitoring the animals’ movements and behaviour, and to provide security from poachers.

Lewa’s conservation initiative has resulted in steady increases of the population under its care, with black rhino levels averaging growth of 10% per year since 2000. There is still a long way to go to increase groups to stable, self-sustaining levels. And the work of conservationists at Lewa and across Kenya and Africa more generally has been undermined by a concerning resurgence of poaching incidents in recent years. Nevertheless, the nine black rhino births which took place at the conservancy last year have been cause for celebration and optimism and are a testament to the concerted efforts its team continues to make in the face of environmental challenges and poaching.

White rhinos grazing

One of the ways in which Lewa Downs funds its conservation work is through fees from tourism. The area is a longstanding favourite for us at Africa House, appearing, for example, in the itinerary for our forthcoming Spring Break Safari. Our guests consistently enjoy the beautiful accommodation and amazing wildlife encounters on offer here. This combination of high-quality safaris with support for conservation for animals such as the iconic rhino truly embodies responsible tourism. Lewa Downs proves that tourism can be good for guests and good for wildlife, making it an organisation with which we are proud to be associated.