A private paradise in the heart of Kenya

When you go off the beaten track in East Africa, you don’t just discover new places – you also glimpse alternative facets to this diverse region. Away from the major parks there’s a world of surprises, unique wildlife encounters and stunning luxury camps to be discovered.

Our recent stay at Ekorian’s Mugie Camp in Kenya’s Laikipia region was a prime example of this. Located in the Mugie Sanctuary, this camp is surrounded by a bewildering array of wildlife. During our visit, some of the most memorable sightings happened just a walk away from camp, at the nearby Mugie Dam. We watched as large herds of elephants gathered here for their daily drink at noon and we spent an evening watching a cheetah stalk her prey. We even spotted a leopard, which, as one of Africa’s more secretive creatures, always provides a moment to savour.

The mess tent at Ekorian's Mugie Camp

The dam and the wider Mugie Conservancy are home to countless more species too. Lions, buffalo, giraffes, zebras and warthogs are among the area’s impressive mammal population. And it’s a dream for bird-watchers, with over 280 species attracted to the dam alone, including migratory birds from as far away as Siberia.

As for the Ekorian’s Mugie accommodation, it’s everything you’d want from a wilderness camp. Simple decked tents, rustic log supports and thatched roofs create a calm, natural look but step inside and details like the stylish furnishings and comfy beds bring comfort and luxury. Plus, providing running hot water and flush toilets is no mean feat in such a remote setting. On top of all this, the camp manages to be a certified eco-lodge, thanks to its solar power and environmentally sensitive construction.

A bedroom tent opening up to the stunning Mugie Sanctuary beyond

The passion and dedication of the couple who run Ekorian – Josh and Donna Perrett – make for fantastic service. The food is fresh and delicious and the owners take time and care to make guests feel at home. It’s even the ideal spot to take young children. Living out here with kids of their own, the Perretts are more than qualified to tailor for younger African adventurers. And with countless activities on offer – swimming, kayaking, golf, cultural visits, bush walks and camel rides to name but a few – there’s a feast of adventure to be had here for guests of all generations.
 
Why not include a trip to Ekorian’s Mugie Camp as part of your next safari? As well as getting a definite thumbs-up from Africa House following our own highly enjoyable stay there, it’s also a chance to explore a lesser travelled but beautiful and wildlife-rich area deep in the Kenyan wilderness.

The camp with its sights set high

Views don’t come much more dramatic than the towering form of Mount Kilimanjaro – and there are few lodges better placed to capture this drama than Tawi Lodge. Located on the southern fringe of Kenya’s stunning Amboseli National Park, the view from Tawi is a quintessential safari landscape of vast open plains with Kili’s snow-tipped grandeur providing the backdrop.
 
As well as its impressive landscapes, this location is also a sensational spot for wildlife. A short game drive will reveal Amboseli’s incredible array of wildlife, including lions, hyenas, wildebeest and Kenya’s largest elephants – in fact, you won’t even need to stray from the lodge to see the elephants, because while you enjoy your morning refreshments, you can watch them enjoy theirs at Tawi’s waterhole, just metres away.

Stylish bedroom at Tawi with stunning views of Mount Kilimanjaro

The lofty mountain view is by fittingly matched by the high standards of this little boutique camp. Tawi is beautifully designed to blend into the African landscape surrounding it with thatched roofs, rich woods and soft lighting. And Tawi has been thoughtfully set out to maximise your enjoyment of that dominating mountain view – every one of its cottages is arranged so that Kili is on display whether you’re on your private veranda, or even in bed or relaxing in your own chic freestanding bath.

For all its rustic charm and the wilderness setting, there’s luxury in abundance here. Each spacious cottage features big, comfy beds, an en-suite with both a bath and shower, and its own fireplace for cosy nights. Plus, for a full pampering experience, Tawi offers a spa, outdoor hot tub and a range of massage treatments. And with a gourmet menu featuring fresh local produce, the sense of luxury is complete.
 
This whole package of great hospitality and stunning aesthetics makes Tawi one of East Africa’s most appealing accommodations. Throw in a truly classic view and amazing game-spotting and it’s simply world-class – and unsurprisingly, a firm fixture on Africa House’s list of favoured properties for our guests in this area.
 
More information about Tawi Camp can be found at www.tawilodge.com. Let us know if you would like to include a stay at Tawi in your own Africa House Safari itinerary. 

The secrets of East Africa’s ‘low’ season

A glance at the climate graphs for East Africa is enough to persuade most people that this time of the year is a no-no for safaris. From now until early June, the rains are in full flow, making this the low season for tourism. But some of us living here in the region have a different view of this these early months. And though you might not think it, in many ways, there’s no better time to head for Kenya or Tanzania.
 
Of course, there’s no denying the downpours. But while you might think of the rain where you are as the chief wrecker of summer plans, it tends to be different here. It’s not the cool, perpetual, spirit-dampening drizzle you might have to contend with – here, you’ll usually encounter heavy downpours followed by a sudden return to clear skies. It can, in fact, be quite exhilarating to see, and if you like a rounded experience when you travel, there’s no denying that the rains inject variety to your trip!

The rainy season is an exciting time when East Africa springs into life

Plus, all that water has its benefits. One is that, arguably, it shows East Africa at its most beautiful. The rainy season can be more positively termed the ‘green season’ as it transforms the region’s landscapes, bringing them to life in full, verdant glory. This, with spells when the air is gorgeously crisp and clear, makes it a popular time for photographers and artists to come and capture Africa’s beauty.
 
And perhaps the best thing about coming to East Africa in these early months is the off-peak prices. With our regional knowledge and contacts here at Africa House, we can choose the ideal places to visit while getting our guests some fantastic deals. So as well as experiencing Africa at one of its most interesting times, you can enjoy Africa House’s renowned luxury for less.

To chat about the kind of safari adventure we can create for you between now and June, give us a call on +254 (0) 722 512 588 or email us at david@africahousesafaris.com. 

Star quality

A day spent in East Africa is always a treat for the eyes. Vast sweeping landscapes, an abundance of animal life and vividly colourful cultures make this a land of visual delights. But when the sun sets after a day out on safari, it doesn’t mean the spectacle is over. Look up and you’ll see another, less obvious one of Africa’s beautiful sights – an utterly bewitching night sky.

If you’re among the majority that live in an urban area, a clear night probably means a pleasantly starry skyward view but one whose brilliance is dampened by the inevitable light pollution of city living. Out on camp in the African bush, it’s a strikingly different scene. Tilt your head to the heavens here and you’re met by a teeming sea of sparkling lights. Stars, planets, clusters and nebulas are all on show, vying for your attention.



A starry sky (© Damien du Toit)

Clear air and remote locations away from artificial light make an East Africa safari the ideal opportunity to indulge in some stargazing. What’s more, the near-equatorial location means that night falls early in the day all year round. So wherever you are out in the African wilds, after a thrilling day of safari, you can lie back and enjoy the unique peace and awe of surveying one of the most dazzling night skies you could hope to see.

Even as a straightforward admirer, stargazing out in Africa is an extraordinary pleasure. But for the amateur astronomer, the sky here holds even more fascination. If you’re accustomed to seeing the stars from a higher latitude, a vantage point near the equator in Kenya brings the novelty of being able to spot stars and constellations of both celestial spheres from a single location.

Setting your sights high

While there’s great pleasure to be had from simply gazing skyward at night when you’re out in Africa, if you want to optimise your astronomical appreciation while you’re here, it can pay to think ahead.

Firstly, it’s worth bearing in mind that the moon cycle plays a significant part in how dark the sky will be and therefore how much you can see. While a full moon is a beautiful celestial phenomenon to enjoy in its own right, and can be desirable for some night-time activities in Africa (such as an atmospherically lit mountain climb), it’s not an ideal condition for star spotting. Gazing at the night sky is far more fruitful during a new moon (you can see the moon cycles for the rest of 2014 here).



The 'starbed' at ol Donyo

Some camps and lodges are specially geared up for stargazers. For example, ol Donyo lodge offers rooftop ‘starbeds’ (pictured, right), which afford the romance of contemplating the night sky right from the comfort of your bed as you drift into slumber. Others, such as Mahali Mzuri, have installed a telescope on camp, for a closer examination of the heavens. Even if your accommodation doesn’t come ready equipped, a good pair of astronomy binoculars is an invaluable and portable tool you can take to enhance your viewing.

Whether you’re interested in the stars and planets from an astronomical perspective or you simply admire the vast and infinite beauty of the sky at night, East Africa is certain to inspire awe after dark. So when you’re relaxing and reflecting after a day of thrills and adventure out in the African wilds, don’t forget to look up for yet another facet to this region’s beauty.
  

Nature meets nostalgia at Sand River

When we heard last year that a new tented camp was opening in the Masai Mara, we were curious as to what it would be like. When we found out it was a luxury 1920s-inspired camp on the stunning Sand River built by boutique accommodation experts The Elewana Collection, we had to go and see it for ourselves.

We made our inaugural outing to this new camp, simply named Sand River Masai Mara after its position at this stunning spot in Kenya’s great National Park, at the very end of last year. What we discovered was a classic permanent camp comprising a string of beautifully apppointed tents dotted along the bank of the Sand River.

A bathroom at Sand River

Tents they may be, but roughing it this certainly is not. Sand River has been designed and decorated to evoke the Golden Age of 1920s and 30s safaris, and the brief is executed to stunning effect. You’re treated to roomy interiors with big four-poster beds, chandeliers, period furnishings, rich wooden floors and opulent fabrics. The bathrooms are fitted with grand roll top baths and gorgeous period-style washstands. This is truly a taste of the classic early days of safari, a sublime immersion in the romantic elegance of those heady days of exploration evoked in Hemingway or Out of Africa. 

A panoramic view of our family tent

The accommodation experience is completed by a standard of service and amenities which is nothing short of exceptional. Each tented room has a private wooden deck where you can sit and take in the views over the river. The communal area boasts wifi, a snooker room and a swimming pool. The sense of luxury continues at dinner time, where the food is not so much bush tucker as fine restaurant dining, with a good choice of delicious dishes on offer. And the staff, as well as providing first-class service, are an absolute pleasure.

Wild wonders

All this is impressive enough – and that’s before even considering the camp’s setting. Sand River is slap bang in the heart of East Africa’s most thrilling wildlife region, where the Masai Mara flanks Tanzania’s Serengeti just beyond the river. This is the pulsing heart of East Africa’s safari wilderness and very much in the thick of the wildlife action. The daily game drives from Sand River provide heaps of animal encounters, with the Big Five all lurking here, along with hundreds of other weird and wonderful creatures besides. We were delighted to get some great sightings of our own, including some precious glimpses (and photos, of which you can see one below) of the majestic lion affectionately known here as ‘Blondie’.

Blondie, who we spotted on the Masai Mara

Another exciting aspect to Sand River is its ideal placing for one of Earth’s greatest natural phenomena, the mass wildebeest migration. If you’re here sometime between July and October, and you’re lucky, you might just get a front-row seat as the incredible sight of masses of wildebeest, accompanied by zebras and gazelles, making their epic journey. But even outside this season, as our trip proved, the wildlife viewing here is sensational.

An elephant we photographed at a watering hole

Our stay at Sand River was one to remember. Despite it having opened less than a year ago, this tented camp has well and truly established itself as a remarkable addition to Kenya’s luxury travel scene, and earns our stamp of approval for Africa House guests. Elegant period luxury, impeccable service and a winning location make Sand River the perfect base for a classic Africa safari.

Solio so good

At its finer end, East African tourism has developed a tendency over recent years to deliver something extraordinary – which is to combine world-class accommodation and magnificent settings with a genuine ethical purpose. One leading in this new class of tourist destination is Solio, a lodge and conservancy in Kenya which we were thrilled to visit for ourselves a few weeks ago.
 
Chic and comfort
 
The lodge itself is nothing short of a delight in which to spend time, and will give design aficionados plenty to smile about. Its series of buildings are gorgeous, sculptural structures, each topped with stunning thatched roofs that resemble hills and blend into the landscape from a distance.


A beautiful bathroom at Solio

Inside, the rooms are styled with relaxed, organic features against soft white walls, with organic shapes and natural materials aplenty and the underside of those vast thatched roofs providing a sweeping textured canopy. This rustic African look is given a contemporary twist with zingy hits of orange and bold art and artefacts. And, beautiful as the rooms are, they rightly yield to the stunning scenery outside by having vast panoramic windows.
 
But more than simply looking good, Solio offers sumptuous luxury and service. The bedrooms and bathrooms are generously sized, and we loved the stylish freestanding bathtub. There’s also an open fireplace in each cottage – being located at a fairly high altitude, this region feels fresh in the evenings, so the fire brings a welcome element of comfort and cosiness. The lavish experience is completed by fantastic food, much of it grown at the lodge, and staff who are friendly, warm and only too happy to help.


A panoramic view of a twin room at Solio

Thrilling wildlife experiences
 
If you can pull yourself away from the charm and comfort of such a chic interior, a breathtaking slice of Africa awaits outside. A private conservancy such as this always offers a unique and exclusive way to witness Africa’s wild wonders. In an open grassy landscape flanked by the dramatic Mount Kenya and Aberdare Mountains, game drives at Solio promise a feast of wildlife encounters. You might spot anything from giraffes and antelopes to leopards and lions.
 

Some of the wildlife we witnessed in the conservancy

But the creatures for which Solio is best known are rhinos. You can expect to see both the white and the rarer black species on your adventures around the reserve (you can see a pair we managed to photograph above). Solio has become recognised as one of Africa's most important refuges and breeding grounds for rhinos, iconic animals whose populations have dwindled and whose future has become uncertain. Solio’s conservation programme has been so successful that it has been able to trans-locate over 160 rhinos to other parts of East Africa to replenish populations.
 
For us, the combination of achingly gorgeous style and luxury with thrilling wildlife insights and the creditable ethical motivation which underpins it, makes Solio an absolute winner. If you’re thinking of experiencing it for yourself, let us know and we’ll discuss how Solio could be part of your own dream safari itinerary.

High hopes for 2014

Which East African safari destinations are we excited about for 2014?
Tourism in Uganda is beginning to come alive with the introduction of schedule flights from Entebbe connecting the main points of interest. We had a look at Uganda last year and thoroughly enjoyed visiting Murchison Falls and Murchison National Park. And it was a particularly exciting experience to be amongst the chimps and encounter other primates on our walk through the Kibale Forest. We were also able to visit with the gorillas and enjoy a different trek experience in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

Have any new camps or lodges caught our eye for the Africa House portfolio?
Some of the accommodations in Uganda compared well with some of the top end camps and lodges in Kenya. Those that stood out were Kyanyinga Lodge (pictured, right) and Ndali Lodge in Kibale, Kyambura Gorge Lodge, just outside Queen Elizabeth National Park, and Gorilla Forest Camp in Bwindi. In Kenya, great new properties such as Ol Jogi, Sirai House, Segera and Elewana's Sand River Camp in the Masai Mara have pushed the boundaries of luxury to a new level. We hope to include these properties in a new and exciting Kenya, Tanzania and Zanzibar itinerary. Kilindi on Zanzibar and Mnemba Island just off Zanzibar to the North particularly caught our eye.

The stunning Kyanyinga Lodge in Uganda

What lies ahead for East African tourism?
This year there is a big opportunity for growth in the trending for multi-generational travel and first-timers on safari to experience the large herds of fabulous wildlife in East Africa in superb accommodations that have recently been added to the portfolio of luxury camps, lodges and bush homes.

What’s new in the Africa House Safaris team for 2014?
We have brought on board three safari guides that bring with them a wealth of many years’ experience and knowledge from guiding in East Africa. We will be looking to produce an exciting top-of-the-range safari itinerary using only the best properties, helicopters, private charters and superb guides.

Is there anywhere in East Africa we would personally like to explore this year?
We would love to find the time to visit places such as Namibia, Botswana, Victoria Falls and Ethiopia, all of which have some fabulous attractions that can easily attach to East African safaris to provide that enormous, unforgettable experience for anyone visiting Africa, whether they be first timers, old hands or regular repeat guests.

What insider tips would we offer to savvy safari travellers?
Pack light, bring a good camera with a good lens and something to stabilise your camera, such as a Groofwin pod – which is easy to attach to a vehicle yet light enough to include in your safari luggage.